Movie costumes – Emma 2020

In honor of the beloved English author Jane Austen’s birthday I would like to discuss the movie costumes of the most recent film adaption of Emma which was released earlier this year.  Although the film’s Regency period costumes may appear to be dated in the historic past, any of these dresses could be an inspiration for a modern wedding.  But before we look at those costumes, let me give you a brief biography of Jane Austen and some information about the 2020 film, Emma.  

Jane Austen (born December 16, 1775 and died July 18, 1817) wrote a total of six novels.  Her first book, Sense and Sensibility was published in 1811, followed by Pride and Prejudice in 1813, Mansfield Park in 1814 and Emma in 1816.  Two additional books were published posthumously in 1818, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.  Austen had started a third book, Sanditon, but it was not finished before her death.

Austen’s books were based on the society in which she lived and she wrote with a touch of humor and drama about her female characters as they find romance, love and occasional heartbreak during the Regency period in England.  Originally the first four books were published anonymously which brought Austen a degree of moderate success that afforded her some financial independence, keep in mind that female authors were rare at this time and in general women socially and financially relied on their husbands.  In 1833, several years after her death, the novels were republished as a set with illustrations by Ferdinand Pickering.  The novels continued to gain commercial success throughout years and have rarely gone out of print. 

Now, let’s briefly discuss the 2020 film adaption of Austen’s fourth book, Emma, which features Anya Taylor-Joy in the starring role of Emma Woodhouse with costars Johnny Flynn as George Knightley, Mia Goth as Harriet Smith and Bill Nighy as Mr. Woodhouse.   The film, directed by Autumn de Wilde, received good reviews and went on to gain two Academy Awards nominations for Best Costume Design and Best Make-up and Hair Styling.  The plot of the Regency period comedy-drama tells the story of Emma who is living with her father in the country; she is a wealthy and elegant young lady who can’t seem to stop herself from meddling in the lives of her neighbors and especially attempting to make a love match for her friend Harriet.  Meanwhile she is unaware that her childhood friend, Mr. Knightley, is in love with her. 

Next, I will discuss the costumes from the 2020 Emma film which were designed by Alexandra Bryne.  Before I start, I would just like to preference that I am NOT an expert on Regency fashions but I will do my best when describing the Emma movie costumes.

Regency fashion for women was based on a style known as the Empire silhouette; the name most probably came from Empress Josephine who was Napoleon Bonaparte’s first wife.  This term generally refers to a dress that is fitted across the bodice and then just below the bust line falls loosely into a gathered long skirt.

A Regency lady would wear various styles of dresses throughout the day; such as a morning dress worn at home, a dress for visiting neighbors or shopping in town, a dress worn for traveling or a riding habit and finally a dinner dress worn in the evening or perhaps a ball gown for a special occasion.  In the film, due to her father’s wealth and status, Emma wardrobe has more fashionable dresses or accessories made in higher-quality fabrics especially when compared to her friend Harriet’s dresses.

Basic white cotton or muslin dress

The main item of a Regency lady’s wardrobe was often made in a white cotton or muslin fabric sometimes embellished with white embroidery or other trimmings.  The simplicity of the white dress allowed versatility and could be accessorized with a chemisette (an undergarment made of cotton or lace to be worn beneath an open-necked dress) or a canezou (a short overgrament usually made of cotton or lace).  To add color to the simple white dress an overbodice, sometime made of silk or velvet, or a colored slip can be worn underneath to create a soft muted tone.  Shown below are several examples of these types of accessories.

an example of the white dress worn with a lace chemisette

an example of an overbodice in pink velvet

an overbodice with beautiful cap sleeves and trim

Historical note:  In the three photos shown above the character of Emma is wearing a topaz cross, in fact Jane Austen owned a similar piece of jewelry which she received as a gift from her brother.

Evening dress or ballgown

A Regency lady, especially one that is as socially prominent as Emma, would have a few evening dresses or ballgowns to wear on special occasions.  Usually these types of dresses would be made of more luxurious fabrics, such as silk or satin often in richer colors that the white or pastel day dresses.  Frequently worn over a white underdress would be sheer overdress made of silk organza or netting with trim and embellishments such as embroidery, beadwork or fabric flowers. 

The first example of an evening dress worn by the character of Emma during the dinner scene at Christmas and it is a beautiful ivory silk organza worn over an ivory satin underdress and the overlay that features silver leaves with an addition layer with silver stars, as shown in the photos below.

Fashion Note: This dress would be a lovely inspiration for a bridal dress for a candlelight evening ceremony and the silver embellishments would shine beautifully. 

The second evening dress worn by Emma in the film is actually a close copy of an antique dress now in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England.  In the photo from the film shown below, the dress is accessorized with long white gloves and a black and white striped shawl.

shown in the photos below from the Victoria and Albert Museum
is the original red silk net evening dress worn over a simple white underdress

the bodice, sleeves and hem are embellished with an embroidered design
of rosebud garlands in pink, red and green chenille

Emma’s wedding dress

At the end of the film, in one of the final scenes, Emma is married to her Mr. Knightley.  In the photos from the film shown below, Emma and her father are ready to walk down the aisle in the small village church.  She is wearing a taupe silk under dress with an overdress of silk organza, the bodice crosses in the front with lace trim at the neckline and puffed sleeves.  

Fashion Note:  Keep in mind that a white wedding dress was not popularized in England until the Victorian period after Queen Victoria wore one when she married Prince Albert.  A lady of Emma’s social status during the Regency period would probably have a new dress custom made for her wedding while a bride of the lower working class would just wear her “best dress” on her wedding day.   

shown below is another photo of Emma wearing a very tall stovepipe hat
with an attached embroidered bridal veil

Finally, before closing out this post, I need to mention perhaps one of my favorite clothing items of this version of the film Emma.  It would be the pink spencer worn by the character of Emma several times during the film, shown below is the scene when she is in the village with Frank Churchill (played by Callum Turner).  The film costume is actually a close copy of a circa 1817 antique jacket now in the Chertsey Museum located southwest of London.     

the pink spencer in the film features beautiful cording and sleeve details,
as shown in the close-up photos below

shown in the photo below from the Chertsey Museum
is the circa 1817 pink spencer which has a much more detailed collar
 

As previously mentioned, although the film’s Regency period costumes may appear to be dated in the historic past, any of these dresses could be an inspiration for a modern wedding. 

Movie Costumes – Breakfast at Tiffany’s

The iconic movie costumes of the 1961 Breakfast at Tiffany’s film worn by Audrey Hepburn as the character Holly Golightly have been an inspiration for decades making the little black dress a requirement for any fashionable women to add to her wardrobe.  In fact any of the dresses from the film would be lovely for a wedding dress (in white of course!) and also for a rehearsal or bridal shower dress.  But before discussing the movie costumes, here is some information about the film.

The Breakfast at Tiffany film is based on a 1958 novella written by Truman Capote, he had originally wanted Marilyn Monroe to play the main character and was unhappy when Audrey Hepburn was cast in the role.  Paramount Pictures acquired the movie rights and the romantic comedy was directed by Blake Edwards and was released theatrically on October 5, 1961.  The film was an immediate critical and commercial success and won the Academy Award for Best Original Song “Moon River” by Henry Mancini and lyricist Johnny Mercer. 

Breakfast at Tiffany’s is the story of a young woman, Holly Golightly (played by Audrey Hepburn), living in New York City who meets a young man, Paul Varjak (played by George Peppard), when he moves into her apartment building. She is working as an expensive escort who is searching for a rich, older man to marry and he is an aspiring writer who is involved with an older wealthy woman.  The movie also included Patricia Neal, Buddy Ebsen, Martin Balsam and Mickey Rooney in supporting roles. 

The iconic opening scene of the movie was filmed on location in New York City at the flagship store of Tiffany & Co located on Fifth Avenue.  Our first glimpse of Hepburn as Holly shows her emerging from a taxi still dressed in her evening clothes from the night before.  As she enjoys her breakfast of take away coffee and a pastry she stands in front of the large Tiffany’s store windows looking at the beautiful jewelry displays, hence the name of the movie!

Now, let’s discuss the costumes of Breakfast at Tiffany’s …

The Givenchy black evening gown

In that first scene of the movie, Audrey Hepburn’s character wears a timeless black Italian satin sheath evening gown by French designer Hubert de Givenchy; he was a close personal friend that she had collaborated with on previous movie costumes.  Although the gown was very simplistic in design, the interesting back features an unusual cut-out décolleté which is accented by a fabulous multi-strand pearl necklace with a large rhinestone broach attached in the front (more on the necklace later).  To complete the fashion ensemble, Hepburn’s long dark hair is styled in an elegant high chignon with a rhinestone tiara and she wears a pair of black satin elbow length gloves and “Manhattan” tortoiseshell sunglasses by designer Oliver Goldsmith (this classic style of sunglasses is still available to purchase over sixty years later!)     

The pearl necklace worn by Hepburn in the opening scene was made by Roger Scemama, a French jewelry designer who frequently collaborated with the haute-couture design houses including Givenchy.  However, Hepburn wore a different necklace for the Breakfast at Tiffany’s movie publicity photographs.  The Ribbon Rosette necklace designed by Jean Schlumberger, as shown in the photos below, features the famous Tiffany Diamond which was acquired by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1878 for $18,000.  The 128.54 carat diamond is cut into an 82 facet cushion-shape and measures an inch wide by seven-eighths of an inch from top to bottom. 

MOVIE TRIVIA:  Tiffany’s specially opened on Sunday to film the scene in which Holly takes Paul to visit the famous jewelry store.  As they walk through the store looking at the jewelry cases they stop to look at the Ribbon Rosette necklace with the Tiffany Yellow Diamond and, to paraphrase Holly, she says the necklace is lovely but she is too young to wear diamonds!

The Givenchy “little black dress”

Hepburn wears another Givenchy dress during the film; the black sheath sleeveless dress is made of cloque silk that flares out at the knees.  In fact the dress is worn for several different scenes in the film.  FASHION NOTE:  This is a perfect example how the versatile little black dress can be used in multiple ways for either daytime or evening wear simply by changing the accessories and this is why it has become a staple for any fashionable women’s wardrobe. 

In the first look Hepburn’s character is wearing the black dress during the scene on the first day she meets Peppard’s character and again when they go to Sing Sing Prison to meet with mobster Sally Tomato.  Both times she wears the dress with a large brimmed black hat known as the Chapeu du Matin with an equally large scarf attached, as shown below in a screenshot from the film and in a publicity photo.

In the second look Hepburn is wearing the black dress during the party scene with a large multi-strand necklace, as shown in the photos below.  The necklace is made of glass beads, pearls and black enamel chains was most likely created by the costume design department at Paramount under the supervision of Edith Head.

In the third look Hepburn wears the dress during the scene in which she sees her ex-husband and she is wearing it this time with an usual black pill box hat trimmed with white feathers, as shown below in a publicity photo.

The Givenchy pink dress

The final dress we will discuss is the Givenchy pink dress which Hepburn is wearing when her character is returning home from a night on the town and she receives some very devastating news.  The fabric of the bright pink dress is covered with fan-shaped rhinestones and a wide pink ribbon belt is tied at the waist, she is carrying the matching pink collarless coat with three-quarter sleeves and completes the look with a pink rhinestone tiara worn in her upswept hair, as shown in the photo below.

So, in conclusion, any of the costumes from the Breakfast at Tiffany’s film could be a great inspiration for a wedding dress (in white of course!) and also for a rehearsal or bridal shower dress. Shown below are two examples of “vintage” sewing patterns that could be used to create a custom Breakfast at Tiffany’s style .

Wedding Reception – Escort Card Table Display Ideas

In this post I will discuss various ideas for an Escort Card Display Tables which will include both formal and informal styles ranging from elegant to whimsical.  By definition an escort card is a small piece of stationery laid out at the entrance to a wedding reception venue indicating where the guests will be seated.  By tradition an escort card is a folded card upon which the guest’s name and table number are written but in recent years bridal couples have become very creative in how the escort cards are displayed. (For more information and creative ideas for Escort Cards, please click on the link)

In essence the escort card displays have become a wonderful way to further express the wedding theme style and colors.  The simplest and most traditional idea for an escort card display is to arrange the cards on a table which could be round, square or rectangular in shape.  Usually a large floral arrangement is placed in the center of a round table or to the back of a square or rectangular table which can be placed against a wall.  To further embellish the table, a beautiful tablecloth can also be used and for an evening reception candles would be a lovely addition. 

Shown below are several example of a traditional style round escort card table

Shown below is an example using a round table with family photos

Shown below is an unusual and beautiful multi-tiered floral table

Another idea for an Escort Card Display is to use large frames in which the escort cards are attached for the wedding guests to use to find their table seating at the reception.

Shown below is an example of a gold frame with moss and flowers.

a variation to using individual escort cards would be to list the guests for each table,
 as shown in the example below

Now, let’s discuss more creative or unusual styles featuring escort card displays or guest seating charts which would be a perfect opportunity for the bridal couple to express their personalities. 

an old window with the guest seating chart

shutters with the escort cards placed between the slates

a great idea for a garden wedding using a wheelbarrow

another idea for a garden wedding would be using hanging leaf escort cards

table guest lists attached to wine bottles would be perfect for a vineyard wedding

another idea for a vineyard wedding would be
wine corks in a frame with guest table lists attached

an old boat with escort cards would be great for a lake wedding

a surfboard with the guest table lists would be a fun idea for a beach wedding

headboard of a bed placed on a table for added height
and displayed with a lovely floral arrangement and silver items

a dressing table with the guest table seating listed on china plates..

a frame with moss and the guest names and table assignments
written on opened vintage books

an old farmstyle table with hanging vintage handkerchiefs
with tags attached and written with the guest names and table assignments

Wedding Reception – Escort Cards Ideas

There are so any components to a wedding reception and one of those important items is the escort card.  The purpose of an escort card is to help the guests find which table they will be seating at for the duration of the event and will directly correspond with that troublesome seating chart that many brides spend time agonizing over.  The seating chart is determined after the wedding guests list is finalized, the invitations are sent and the RSVPs have been returned, but as many brides know there are almost always last minute changes and this can result in a problem shifting guests to appropriate tables.

It is important to note that there is a difference between an escort card and place card since both are stationery items used for a wedding reception.  An escort card has the guest’s name and the assigned table number; the cards are customarily placed on a table located at the entrance to the wedding reception. In contrast, a place card has only the guest’s name and is placed at the corresponding place setting at the guest table.    

Once the final guest list is determined escort cards are normally made in heavy cardstock with the guest’s name and table number either printed or written in calligraphy.  The most classic version of an escort card is a white or ivory cardstock with black ink but any color combination can be selected to coordinate with the wedding color scheme or theme.

When purchasing escort cards, be sure to order an amount according to the quest list.  The general rule is that cards are used for individuals or one per couple or family.  Also, be sure to order extra cards for printing or calligraphy errors and late additions to the wedding reception.

Escort cards are usually set out on a table near the entrance to the wedding reception; the table could be round, square or rectangular in shape.  A tablecloth can be used to the cover the table, either white/ivory or a color that coordinates with the wedding color scheme or theme.  In addition, a floral arrangement or candles can be placed on the table, the bridal couple’s engagement photos or parent/grandparents wedding photos can also be used to add a personal element to the escort card display.   (Please click on the link to Wedding Escort Table Display for ideas and suggestions)  

WEDDING TIP: Escort cards should be arranged in alphabetical order to make is easier for the wedding guests to find.     

Shown below is the classic escort card displayed in a small frame

Shown below are two examples of escort cards displayed on flowers
white roses and pink carnations

Shown below are several examples that could be used for a garden wedding reception
escort cards can be displayed on moss and a birch branch

Shown below are several examples of escort cards display
using crystal pebbles and sea glass (to match the wedding color/theme)

Shown below are two examples for a beach wedding
the first is a wooden bow filled with sand and scattered with seashells

The second beach theme idea uses seashells with the escort cards attached

The next examples uses wooden boxes filled with
coffee beans, cranberries and lavender

Shown below are two examples fruit with escort cards
made to look like leaves attached to apples and lemons
(artificial fruit would be a more practical substitute for real fruit)

Shown below is a great idea for escort cards
using wine glasses in an unusual way for a winery/vineyard theme reception

As this post shows, there are numerous ideas for displaying escort cards for any style or theme for a wedding reception.  For additional ideas and suggestions, please click on the link to Escort Card Table Displays.

Wedding ceremony – aisle decorations (Part One)

In general, aisle decorations are frequently added to a ceremony site to coordinate with the wedding style and also as a way of bringing color to a venue and in Part One of the Wedding Ceremony Aisle Decorations series I will discuss ideas ranging from simple to more elaborate designs.    I will offer suggestions ranging from traditional fabric aisle runners which are available in a variety of styles and colors to aisle runners.  I will also discuss the popular use of floral designs and candles to decorate the aisle of a ceremony site. 

Special Note:  Frequently at a wedding the center aisle of a ceremony site is reserved for only the bride and her attendants to walk down, sometimes the aisle will be roped off and the guests will be asked to use the side aisles to get to their seats and this is especially important when elaborate aisle decorations are used.

AISLE RUNNERS

Aisle runners can serve a dual purpose for a wedding ceremony; the first practical reason is to protect the bride’s wedding dress from becoming soiled.  The second reason would be to incorporate design and sometimes color which can improve the aesthetics to a sometimes plain venues thus creating a beautiful and personalize style for a wedding ceremony site.

Special Note:  It is highly recommended that aisle runners be safely secured to avoid anyone from tripping.  Be sure to check with the wedding venue for advice on what type of method to use that would avoid any possible damage to the interior flooring or exterior ground. 

The most frequent used aisle decoration used for a wedding ceremony is an aisle runner and the common style being the use of a white material for a classic formal look.  Although inexpensive plastic white aisle runners are available, I would advise that when purchasing one it would be best to select one made of a heavier material aisle runner, sometimes ones are available with a non-slip backing.

A white material aisle runner is a great choice because it can be customized with a personal monogram and embellished with an edge of flower petals as shown in the photo below. 

An alternative material that is also a popular choice for an aisle runner is jute or burlap fabric which is often used for its durability.  This type of material would be great for a more informal outdoor wedding ceremony site such as a garden or on the beach. 

For a garden wedding the jute or burlap aisle runner
can be embellished with flower petals or leaves scattered along the edge.

For a beach wedding a jute or burlap aisle runner
can be accented with an assortment of seashells

A unique idea for an aisle runner would be a long rug such as the type used in the hallway of a home; this idea can be used for either an interior or exterior venue. 

In general, a long and narrow rug works best for a smaller wedding site with a shorter aisle length but additional rugs can also be used for longer aisles.

Special Note: These rugs can be a little pricey but a great advantage is that the rugs can be repurposed for use in the newlywed’s home after the wedding day! 

FLORAL AISLE DECORATIONS

In recent years the use of flowers and greenery as an aisle decoration for a wedding ceremony has evolved from simple rose petals or leaves used to decorate the aisle runner to more elaborate styles involving beautiful floral petals arranged in an artistic way along the aisle to floral arrangements in large urns or floral arches to the use of potted plants and trees to decorate the aisle.

Perhaps the easiest use of floral petals or leaves would be to simply scatter them along the aisle runner, shown below is an example using leaves.

The next idea is to create an ombre effect by arranging floral petals in different shades of color ranging from light to dark.

In recent years a popular use of floral petals is an arrangement forming the initial of the bridal couple’s last name or a more intricate design creating a lovely pattern along the center aisle.  In the photos below, please also note the use of floral arrangements and floral arches which can also be used to decorate the start and/or end of an aisle as wedding ceremony decorations.   

Christine Bentley Photography

Potted floral arrangements or plants can be used for aisle decorations either for indoor or outdoor wedding ceremonies. Shown below are several examples using flowers placed in simple metal pails and boxwood plants placed in garden pots which would be perfect for a garden wedding ceremony, “seagrass” in a containers wrapped in burlap would be a great idea for a beach wedding ceremony.

Trees can also be used for aisle decorations either for indoor or outdoor wedding ceremonies. Shown below are several examples which feature trees of beautiful white flowers that would be a great idea for a spring or summer wedding ceremony and white bare branch trees which would look lovely at a winter wedding.

Special Note:  A great idea would to repurpose the potted plants or trees used at the wedding ceremony which can be later used at the home of the newlyweds as a sentimental reminder of their special day.  For the Royal Wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton several English Maple trees were placed along the center aisle of Westminster Abbey for the wedding ceremony and then afterwards the trees were planted at the home of Prince Charles.  To view the photos of these trees before and after the ceremony, please click on the link to The Wedding Flowers of Prince William and Kate Middleton. 

CANDLE AISLE DECORATIONS

For an indoor or outdoor evening ceremony candles used as aisle decoration can be beautiful and but would be especially lovely used to set a very romantic mood, shown below are several examples using glass cylinders, lanterns and tall candle holders decorated with floral arrangements.

FABRIC DRAPING

Fabric draping for wedding aisle decorations can be used to create a lovely romantic style for a ceremony, shown below are several examples for both indoor and outdoor.

For additional ideas and suggestions, please click on Part Two of Wedding Ceremony Aisle Decorations which will focus on chair/pew decorations and more unique aisle decorations using items such as tree stumps, wine barrels and door panels. 

Jackie Kennedy – White House Dresses

In this post, I will discuss the dresses worn by Jackie Kennedy during White House years.  Jackie was a major influence on fashion as First Lady during the 1960s and some of these classic styles could be seen as a great inspiration for the wedding dresses for a bride, her bridesmaids or even the Mother of the bride or groom.  (Special Note: portions of this post were originally written for my other blog, www.theenchantedmanor.com).

Jacqueline Jackie” Bouvier Kennedy (born: July 28, 1929 died: May 19, 1994) was the wife of the 35th President of the United States, John F. Kennedy.  She was the First Lady from January 1961 until her husband’s tragic assassination in November 1963.  She was young and beautiful, only 31 years old at the start of her husband’s presidency, and during her years in the White House she set the fashion style for the nation. The American public was fascinated by her simple but elegant clothing, her iconic pillbox hats and bouffant hairstyle.

The designer, Oleg Cassini, was selected shortly before the inauguration.  The First Lady and Cassini worked together throughout her husband’s presidency, collaborating on her wardrobe for official engagements which would reflect Jackie’s personal sense of style, with a distinctive and subtle European fashion design while being manufactured in the United States.

Her dresses had simple, clean lines featuring A-line skirts, three-quarter length sleeves or most often sleeveless sheaths matching coats or two piece suits consisting of a simple straight skirt and matching jacket for daytime events. Also for daytime wear shoes, gloves and hats were custom made or purchased to match each individual outfit.  Although Halston did not originally come up with the pillbox hat design, he did make several custom hats for the First Lady.

For official evening engagements, such as State dinners or other more formal occasions, the dresses were either knee-length or floor-length, depending on the event, and similar in their design elements but made from elegant fabrics sometimes with chiffon, beading or silk embroidery accents.  Cassini produced over 300 dresses for Mrs. Kennedy during her time in the White House and all the dresses were made by a staff of skilled seamstresses specifically assigned for making the clothing for the First Lady using fabrics of the finest linen, wool, satin and shantung silk.  Special Note: Cassini was not the only fashion designer of Mrs. Kennedy’s dresses during the White House years and occasionally she collaborated with other designers.

So, let’s start by looking at a few of Mrs. Kennedy’s iconic dresses which she worn as the nation’s First Lady, the dresses are listed in chronological order.

Pre-Inauguration Gala Dress –

For the Pre-Inauguration Gala Dress held on January 19, 1961 at the National Guard Armory in Washington, D.C. Cassini designed a beautiful ivory silk sating evening gown with a fully lined A-line skirt and three-quarter length sleeves which Mrs. Kennedy worn with elbow length gloves.  The detail of the cockade (a knot of ribbon or fabric with a circular shape in the middle) which was attached at the waist was per Jackie’s request was a nod to her French Bouvier ancestry.  (Fashion Note:  Some fashion critiques think that this dress worn for the Pre-Inaugural Gala was more beautiful than the gown that was worn for the Inaugural Ball the next day and I would have to agree with this assessment)

Inauguration Ceremony Dress and Coat –

On President John Kennedy’s Inauguration Day, January 20, 1961, Cassini designed two separate pieces – a simple dress with a matching coat both made of beige wool crepe.  Cassini selected the fabric for the coat specifically because he knew that the other political wives would be wearing their heavy fur coats “looking like overstuffed bears” and he wanted the new First Lady to look both youthful and fashionable.  The over-blouse dress featured a simple round neckline, three-quarter length sleeves and a notched detail at the waistline.  Worn over the dress was an equally simple knee-length coat which featured two large buttons at the front and two side pockets at the hip.  To complete her ensemble, Mrs. Kennedy wore a small sable circlet at her neck, a matching sable muff and a Halston pillbox hat which she chose to wear toward the back of her head.  (Fashion Note:  Numerous Halston pillbox hats were custom made for Mrs. Kennedy throughout her husband’s presidency and would later become a fashion accessory strongly associated with the First Lady)

Inaugural Ball Gown and Cape –

On the evening of Inauguration Day: after the swearing-in ceremony, congressional luncheon and parade, President Kennedy and Mrs. Kennedy formally dressed for the several Inauguration Balls planned for the night festivities.  Mrs. Kennedy wore an off-white sleeveless gown made of silk chiffon over peau d’ange (satin-weave fabric) featuring a strapless bodice embellished with silver colored silk embroidery thread and seed pearl beading, a matching cape with a toggle closure at the neck was worn over the dress.  The dress was designed in collaboration with Mrs. Kennedy, who drew the sketches of her dress ideas, and Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Custom Salon located in New York City.

Ivory Embroidered Evening Gown –

During the first year of President Kennedy’s administration, a State Visit was planned to France where the President would have several meeting with Charles de Gaulle the leader of the French Republic.  Mrs. Kennedy had been a longtime admirer of French Fashion Design but for the visit she had planned to wear American designs exclusively with the exception of one particular dress.  For the dinner at Versailles, France on June 1, 1961 she wore a stunning Givenchy evening gown of ivory ziberline (a heavy silk fabric with a twill weave) which featured an A-line skirt.  The bodice of the dress was heavily embroidered with roses and lilies of the valley created by Hurel with silk thread, ribbon and seed pearls.  (Historical Fashion Note:  The dress was worn again for a congressional reception held in the White House on April 10, 1962)

Blue Evening Gown –

This lovely dress was worn by Mrs. Kennedy during a State Visit to England for a dinner hosted by Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace in London on June 5, 1961.  The designer was Chez Ninon and the light blue silk shantung evening dress featured a belt with a decorative bow at the waist that created soft pleats, the dress was an interpretation of a Givenchy dress.  (Historical Fashion Note:  The dress was worn once again for a dinner with the Prime Minister of Japan, Hayato Ikeda, at the Japanese Embassy in Washington, D.C. on June 22, 1961)

Apricot Dress –

Mrs. Kennedy traveled to India and Pakistan with her sister, Lee Radziwill, on a diplomatic tour on March 12-26, 1962.  Taking inspiration from the countries she was to visit, her wardrobe for the trip was designed in more colorful colors.  A perfect example of this was the bright dress she wore on March 17, 1962 for a boat ride on Lake Pichola in Udaipur, India.  She wore a Cassini designed sleeveless apricot colored, knee length dress made in ziberline (with a v-neckline which was accented with a bow at the waist.

Pale Yellow Dress –

During the diplomatic trip to India and Pakistan, Mrs. Kennedy wore a dress designed by Gustave Tassell.  The dress was made of pale yellow silk shantung and featured a slit opening at the neckline, cap sleeves and a three-inch wide band around a fitted waist with a full skirt.  While in Jaipur, India, where the First Lady met with members of the Peace Corps, she was joined by her sister for an elephant ride at the Amber Palace.

Celadon Evening Dress –

Mrs. Kennedy wore a lovely evening dress designed by Cassini in a beautiful shade called celadon (a light green color) made in a silk jersey.  The dress is very fluid in style and features a gently draped bodice and skirt forming soft pleats.  Mrs. Kennedy wore the dress to a dinner honoring the Nobel Prize winners which was held at the White House in Washington, D.C. on April 29, 1962.

Pink Evening Dress –

State Dinners at the White House were always formal events, such as the one honoring Andre Malraux, the French Minister of Culture.  Malraux was responsible for bringing the Mona Lisa portrait by Leonardo da Vinci to the United States and a dinner was held at the White House on May 11, 1962 to honor him.  Mrs. Kennedy wore an evening gown designed by Guy Douvier made in a soft pink silk shantung, the dress wraps together in the back and is tied with a stiff Kabuki-style bow.

As previously mentioned, any of Jackie Kennedy’s 1960s classic style dresses would be a great inspiration for the wedding dresses for a bride, her bridesmaids or even the Mother of the bride or groom.

Theme Wedding – Delftware

At the beginning of this year Pantone released the 2020 color of the year and it was Classic Blue.  I wrote a post about using this color as inspiration and offered ideas and suggestion on creating a beautiful Blue Wedding, for more information please click on the link.  Delftware is known for its distinctive deep blue color known as Delft blue and it is very similar to the Pantone Classic Blue.  For this reason I thought I would discuss incorporating delftware style items into the design of a Classic Blue Wedding.   

Delftware is a very specific style of beautiful blue and white tin-glazed earthenware produced in Delft, Holland (hence the name!)  The evolution of the style began in Belgium where artisians were producing a type of pottery known as Majolica using techniques similar to those found in Spain and Italy during the 16th century.  After the Belgium potters relocated to Holland in the early 17th century they began to combine tin-glazed earthenware with painting techniques similar in style to the popular Chinese porcelain but instead of Asian themes the pottery was painted with Dutch landscapes with windmills and European floral patterns. 

Original Delftware items from Holland can be very expensive and hard to find.  If you are lucky, you can find Delftware items online directly from sources in Holland or in antique stores or through websites such as EBay.  Special Note: If you are selecting original delftware items for your wedding decorations please keep in mind that these pieces can be fragile and that there is always a potential risk for breakage.

Today, beautiful items are being produced that have the look of delftware but at much more affordable prices.  The delft style items available range from place settings which include dishes and glassware to serving pieces such as platters or cake stands to decorative pieces such as vases and figurines.  The delft style is also reproduced in fabric items such as tablecloths, napkins and pillows as well as paper products such as wedding invitations, place cards and menu cards.

delftware plate

Ceremony decorations

As I previously stated, delft style items would pair beautifully with a Classic Blue Wedding theme and could be used for either an indoor or outdoor wedding ceremony.  Shown below is a beautiful “tulip” vase that could be filled with flowers and placed on a white pedestal, I would definitely secure the vase with glue dots to keep it in place in case.  Another idea using the same vases would be to place them on the floor at the end of each row of chairs and fill with flowers to make a stunning aisle decoration for the wedding ceremony.  If the budget would not allow vases for every row, consider placing just a few vases along the aisle.  Special note: If you are concerned about guests tipping the vases or breakage, consider taking off the main aisle and have guests enter the row from the side.  

Tulip vase from Amazon

Reception decorations

Delftware style decorations would be wonderful incorporated into a Blue Wedding themed reception.  A lovely delft style vase could be filled with beautiful flowers for the reception guest tables and more vases could be placed on the guest book table or escort card table. 

Delftware vase from the royaldelft.com

Shown above is a delftware candlestick that could also be used on the guest tables

Shown above are delft style house tiles that could be used
for table numbers on the guest table at the wedding reception

Another idea for a simple white wedding cake is to use a small delftware vase filled with flowers would make a perfect cake topper, be sure to take into consideration the dimensions of the wedding cake because that would determine the size of the vase (also if the vase is too heavy it can sink into the cake!)

Shown below is delicious idea for another food item to serve at a wedding reception and these cookies were made to resemble delft style tiles.

Other wedding items

Delft jewelry would be a wonderful gift idea for the bride & groom and the bridesmaids & ushers.  Another idea that would make the presentation memorable would be to put the jewelry into a delftware box.

Delft necklace for the bride or bridesmaids

Delft cufflinks for the groom or ushers

Delftware will also make a wonderful gift for the bridal couple and shown below are two ideas, the first one is a commemorative plate that can be personalize with the bride and groom’s names and the wedding date and the second one is a wedding bell shaped Christmas ornament.

I hope that you enjoyed the ideas and suggestions
for incorporating delftware into a Blue Wedding.

The Custom of the Wedding Toast

In this post I will start by giving a brief history and origin of wedding toast custom, the unusual meaning of the term toast and the general etiquette guidelines to making a proper toast. production process of the sparkling wine known as champagne.  Champagne became the celebratory drink of choice for special occasions, such as weddings.  Then, finally to end this post I will give several suggestions for incorporating champagne into a wedding reception, such as a champagne glass tower or a champagne fountain. 

The Wedding Toast

The origin of a toast can be traced back to the Ancient Greeks who would honor their Gods through a symbolic drink.  Ancient Romans gave great importance to drinking to a person’s health and in fact the Roman Senate passed a decree that at every meal a symbolic drink should be taken to honor the Emperor Augustus. 

The origin of the term toast can be found in the 16th century, at the time most wines were of inferior quality and by placing a piece of stale bread (toast) into the wine barrel it was meant to soak up the acidity thereby improving the flavor of the wine.  Eventually, the custom of the toast became associated with a way of honoring a person by giving them the wine soaked bread.  Gradually the actual toast/bread was eliminated but the custom of honoring a person remained. 

At the wedding reception the champagne toast formally congratulates the bridal couple on their marriage and can sometimes include emotional or humorous anecdotes specifically about the bride and groom.  At a formal wedding, toasts are given immediately following the meal and before the bridal couple’s first dance.  It can also be done either before or after the cutting of the wedding cake.  For an informal wedding, toasts can be made at any time; some suggestions include giving the toast before or after the meal is served.      

If multiple people are giving toasts the suggested order would be: the father of the bride (if her parents are hosting the reception), the best man, the maid/matron of honor and finally the bridal couple could toasts their families and invited guests.  Another option that could be added on the night before the wedding is the father of the groom (since his parents generally host the rehearsal dinner) toasts the couple and welcomes their families.  Special Note: It is best to coordinate with the people giving the toasts prior to the wedding day and hopefully they will prepare a short toast. 

Usually for a wedding toast an alcoholic drink is served, such as champagne or wine, but is not required and sometimes a sparkling fruit juice can be served instead.  Toasting with an empty glass is considered unacceptable (and could also bring bad luck to the bridal couple) and if none of the beverage suggestions mentioned above sound appetizing to your palate or you may have dietary issues drinking water would be a good choice.  

Etiquette Guidelines for Wedding Toasts

  1. The person giving the toast should stand while the bride and groom should remain seated.  After the toast the bridal couple should stand and acknowledge the person giving the toast and many give a kiss or hug.
  2. After the toast is given guests should take a sip of the champagne (or other beverage) and if multiple toasts are given be sure to save some to drink after the other toasts. 
  3. It is considered impolite to put down a glass before the toast is completed or to not drink to the bridal couple after the toast is given.
  4. After the wedding day, a nice gesture would be to send those individuals giving the wedding toast a personal thank you note.

History of Champagne

It seems that throughout the past centuries several wedding customs have come to involve food and drink, such as champagne.  Although still wines have been produced in France since the 5th century, records indicate in the 16th century Benedictine monks created the process of sparkling wine by bottling the wine before the initial fermentation had been completed.  A century later Christopher Merret, an English scientist and physician, created a process in which yeast and sugar were added to the wine during the initial fermentation thereby creating a second fermentation process.    

This new process created carbonation that would build pressure within the bottles and caused the corks to pop or the bottles to explode.  Ultimately two things would happen; first a new type of bottle would be developed with thicker walls to withstand the pressure created by the carbonation.  Second, a muselet (a wire cage that fits over the cork at the top of the bottle) was invented to prevent the corks from blowing out.  Ultimately this new process became known as the methode champenoise and by definition the label of champagne was originally only given to French sparkling wines grown from grapes in the Champagne region produced by these specific methods.

Champagne became popular with the European Royal Courts during the 17th and 18th centuries and because of the exorbitant cost and limited quantity available it was seen as a status symbol.  Later in the late 19th century champagne production increased with better techniques and was eventually marketed to the middle class.  Champagne has now become the beverage of choice to mark special celebrations; such as weddings, births, housewarming, retirement and or even the classic New Year’s Eve toast at midnight!   

Ideas and suggestions for incorporating champagne into a wedding reception

Opening the Champagne Bottle –

Opening a champagne bottle could add that celebratory “pop” at the wedding reception.  A champagne bottle is usually opened by removing the muselet (a wire cage that fits over the cork at the top of the bottle).  Always check with the wine steward at the hotel or venue where the reception is being held for the proper procedures.  Special Note: Caution should be taken when opening a champagne bottle and safety is very important so extra precautions should be taken.  Champagne needs to be chilled properly before serving and if the bottle is not cold enough it is possible that the cork will be released too quickly which could be very dangerous!

Presenting and Displaying Champagne –

There are several different ways to present and display champagne before serving for the wedding toast.  The first idea is a classic and very elegant way to serve champagne and involves the hotel or venue wait staff carry the champagne poured into glasses and served individually to guests from a silver tray.

A beautiful extra touch would be to serve the champagne with a special garnish, strawberries for champagne and orange slices for a champagne mimosa

To add an extra special style to an “at home wedding”
consider renting a champagne fountain
(notice the beautiful floral arrangement placed at the top)

A wedding custom that was once very popular and which has recently made a comeback at wedding receptions is the champagne tower.  Check with the hotel or venue to see if they can accommodate this very unique way of serving champagne. 

A more elaborate way to present champagne bottles at a wedding reception is an ice sculpture, the first photo shown below is simple and the second photo shows an ice sculpture with roses that would make a beautiful display.

Wedding Flowers – Prince William and Catherine Middleton

This post will feature the wedding ceremony flowers for the April 29, 2011 wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton which took place at Westminster Abbey in London, England.  Per the request of the Royal Couple there were a few stipulations regarding their wedding flowers.  First, the bride requested that the flowers used in her bridal bouquet would be chosen for their special meanings according to old English tradition of the “language of the flowers”.  Second, the flowers selected would also need to be traditional English flowers that would be in season at the time of the wedding.  Third, the flowers and plants needed to be grown in England and possibly from one of the Royal estates.  Fourth, the large trees used to decorate in the interior of the Abbey on the wedding day would be able to be replanted.

Catherine Middleton’s bridal bouquet

Catherine Middleton personal floral request for her bridal bouquet would incorporate the “language of the flowers” which was an old custom popular during the Victorian era.  At that time, flowers and plants would be selected for their special meanings to convey hidden messages.

Catherine’s small all white bridal bouquet was designed by florist Shane Connolly and was in sharp contrast to Prince William’s mother, Princess Diana, extremely large bouquet for her wedding to Prince Charles in 1981.  Catherine’s bouquet featured lily of the valley (happiness), Sweet William (gallantry and also as a tribute to her new husband), hyacinth (constancy of love), ivy (fidelity) and myrtle (love and marriage).

Comparison of Kate and Diana’s bridal bouquets

Catherine Middleton’s wedding bouquet recreated for the Kensington Palace exhibit

Legend has it that clippings from the myrtle in Queen Victoria’s bridal bouquet have been used by every royal bride since her wedding to Prince Albert in 1840 (see the special note below).  The tradition of the myrtle first started when the Princess Royal Victoria, the eldest child of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, used the myrtle in her bouquet when she married Prince Frederick of Prussia in 1858.  The tradition continued thereafter for the weddings of Queen Victoria and Price Albert’s other four daughters.  In the years that followed other royal brides also used myrtle in their wedding bouquets, such as Princess Alexandra when she married Prince Albert Edward (later King Edward II), Princess Mary of Teck when she married Prince George (later King George V), Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon when she married Prince Albert George (later King George VI) and Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II) when she married Prince Phillip.  Special Note: Contrary to popular belief, the myrtle planted during Queen Victoria’s time which still grows in the garden at Osborne House did not come from her bridal bouquet but from a nosegay presented by Prince Albert’s grandmother during a visit to Prince Albert’s homeland of Germany several years later after their wedding.

The gardens of Osborne House
where the myrtle for British Royal bridal bouquets is grown

Another British Royal bridal tradition started with the wedding Prince Albert George and Lady Elizabeth in 1923.  In the moments before proceeding down the aisle at Westminster Abbey there was a slight delay.  In those few minutes, to honor her brother Fergus who had died a few years earlier in World War I, Lady Elizabeth spontaneously laid her bridal bouquet on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  Special Note: Since that time, Royal brides that are married at the Abbey have also laid their bouquets on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier with the one exception that instead of it being placed prior to the start of the ceremony, the bouquet is laid on the sacred spot afterwards.  This is a lovely tradition most recently done by Catherine Middleton at her wedding to Prince William.

Catherine Middleton’s bouquet on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Wedding floral arrangements and trees used at Westminster Abbey

Once again Catherine worked with her floral designer to create meaningful large arrangements made entirely of English flowers.  The flowers selected for the white, cream and green arrangements included azaleas (temperance), rhododendrons (beware), beech (prosperity), wisteria (good luck) and lilac (purity and innocence). Two large ornamental hornbeams trees (resilience) were used around the choir area of the Abbey.  The flowers and supplies were delivered in the days before the wedding to be finished on site and then placed in several locations within the historic church.

Wedding flowers and supplies being delivered to the Abbey

Seen in this photo is one of the large floral arrangements
placed at the entrance to the Abbey

This photo shows several floral arrangements placed in the Abbey’s altar area

Catherine also selected eight 20 foot high English field maple trees (humility) to use in the Abbey to create the atmosphere of a lovely English country garden; the fifteen year old trees weighted half a ton each.  Special Note: The English Field Maple is native to Britain and in medieval times the wood was often used to make loving cups (a shared drinking container traditionally used at weddings).

The trees had been planted into special pots designed by the florist and delivered to the Abbey prior to the wedding.  It took a large crew to unload the trees with a forklift and then, with some difficulty and tricky maneuvering due to the height of the Great West Door, the trees were finally moved into position in the designated places within the Abbey.

   

The large English field maple trees being moved into position in the Abbey

Prince William and Catherine Middleton seen in the recessional
from the Abbey walking through the aisle lined with the trees

As previously mentioned, one of Catherine’s stipulations in selecting the trees to be used to decorate the interior of the Abbey was that the trees would be able to be replanted in an environment-friendly manner.  So, after the wedding the trees were removed from Westminster Abbey and taken to Prince Charles’ Highgrove Estate in Tetbury in Gloucestershire, England and planted in the garden as a lasting memorial to the occasion of the marriage of Prince William and Catherine Middleton.

The English field maple trees replanted at Highgrove

A Royal Wedding Cake – Prince William & Catherine Middleton

It has been said that a wedding cake is the centerpiece of a wedding reception and a Royal wedding is no exception to this rule.  In this post I will highlight the spectacular wedding cake of Prince William and Catherine Middleton’s April 29, 2011 wedding. 

After the official engagement was announced and in the weeks leading up to the wedding date, ideas for the wedding cake were discussed with the British baker, Fiona Cairns, who had been commissioned to make a tradition fruitcake.  The cake would be covered in cream and white icing decorated with approximately 900 flowers made of sugar-paste.  The design featured a tall multi-tiered cake inspired by the high ceilings of the site of the wedding reception which would be in the Picture Gallery at Buckingham Palace. 

The Picture Gallery at Buckingham Palace

Fiona Cairns began the process of making the wedding cake five weeks before the wedding date by starting with the sugar-paste flowers.  Catherine had requested 17 different types of flowers and foliage which were chosen for their special meanings in the British tradition of the language of flowers.  The national symbols of England (rose), Ireland (shamrock), Scotland (thistle) and Wales (daffodil) were chosen.  Sweet William was chosen for the groom and the acorn & oak leaves, which had been used on the Middleton’s new coat of arms, were also selected.  Other elements included tradition bridal flowers such as lily of the valley for humility, orange blossom for eternal love, daisy for innocence, myrtle for love and ivy for marriage.  Additional floral used were honeysuckle, white heather, lavender, jasmine and apple blossom.

Some of the final touches to the wedding cake were inspired by the architectural details of the Picture Gallery and were reproduced in the sugar paste garlands used on the fourth tier.  Other elements included a monogram on the third tier featuring the intertwined initials of the bride and the groom with a coronet.  The top tier had a delicate lily of the valley sugar paste arrangement made by the Buckingham Palace pastry chef, Kathryn Boyden, and her staff.   

Days before the wedding date, Cairns and her staff moved the various components of the wedding cake to the Picture Gallery at Buckingham Palace.  The layers were positioned on a square table covered with a pale gold tablecloth set on a raised platform.  Then, the team put the finishing touches on the cake and the finished product met with the Prince and Catherine’s approval.     

Barry Colenso, a master chocolatier, worked with the McVitte Cake Company to create a special cake requested by the groom.  The actual recipe came from Buckingham Palace and it was based on a classic Tiffin cake which was Prince William’s favorite as a child.  Extra decorations were added in the form of white chocolate flowers, each was created by hand and took over 6 hours to make.