Category Archives: Fashion

The Greville Jewelry Collection

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Some of the most exquisite pieces of jewelry worn by the British Royal family came from a relatively unknown woman named Mrs. Greville.  Included in this small priceless collection are two beautiful tiaras, one is the Greville Diamond Tiara worn in the past by the Queen Mother and now by Camilla the Duchess of Cornwall and the other is the  Greville Emerald Kokoshnik worn by Princess Eugenie at her wedding in October 2018.  Another favorite item that was worn previously by the Queen Mother and now worn by the Duchess of Cornwall is the stunning Greville Festoon Necklace.  Also from the Greville collection is the Ruby and Diamond Floral Bandeau Necklace worn most recently by the Duchess of Cambridge.

Before I go into detail about several of the Greville jewelry pieces let’s find out about the women who originally possessed this amazing jewelry collection and how it came to the British Royal family.  Margaret Andersen Greville (born: December 20, 1863 died: September 15, 1942) was the daughter of the multimillionaire founder of the Fountain Brewery in Scotland, William McEwan, and his mistress Helen Anderson.  It is interesting to note that over twenty years later McEwan and Helen finally married in 1885 after the death of her first husband, at the time their daughter, Margaret, was 21 years old. 

In 1891, Margaret married the Hon. Ronald Greville who was eldest son of the 2nd Baron Greville and later he became a Member of Parliament.  In 1906 Margaret’s father purchased Polesden Lacey, a large country estate located in Surrey, England for the couple.  Sadly, Margaret’s husband died two years later in 1908 and then her father in 1913.  Since Margaret was the only child of McEwan, upon his death the bulk of his estate went to her thus making her a very wealthy woman.    

Mrs. Greville was a philanthropist, a socialite and she was named a Dame Commander of the British Empire in 1922.  She was friends with many members of the British Royal family including Queen Mary and Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon (later to become Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother).  In fact when Lady Elizabeth married Prince Albert (later to become King George VI) in 1923 they spent part of their honeymoon at Mrs. Greville’s country estate.

When Mrs. Greville died in 1942 she was buried at Polesden Lacey and the estate is now run by the National Trust and is open to the public.  So, throughout the years Mrs. Greville was a great collector of fine jewelry especially Boucheron and Cartier.   Since the Grevilles had no children the majority of her priceless jewelry collection went to the Queen Mother.  The size of the collection was not made known to the public at the time but it is estimated that there were about 60 pieces of jewelry. Then upon her the death of the Queen Mother in 2002 her daughter, Queen Elizabeth II, inherited the Greville jewelry collection. 

So, let’s take a look at a few of the items from the Greville jewelry collection that has been worn by the British Royal Family over the past decades.

The Greville DiamondTiara

Perhaps one of the most iconic pieces from the Greville jewelry collection is a stunning diamond tiara.  Since the social elite were known to “repurpose” their jewelry often by taking the stones from one piece and using them to create a different piece, a necklace could be made into another necklace or a tiara could be used to create a necklace.   

The history of the Greville Tiara is an interesting example because it has taken on three distinct design styles.  The first version of the tiara, shown below, had a very different design that featured a floral motif and was worn by Mrs. Greville for the coronation of King Edward VII in 1901.  It has been noted that the diamonds used to create this tiara might have come from another tiara that had been a wedding present from her father.     

Then, in 1921 Mrs. Greville had that tiara redesigned into a second version, shown below, which became known as the Boucheron Honeycomb Tiara.  The platinum millegrain setting features an intricate “honeycomb” pattern with pave diamonds and large round diamonds set in the center of each section.  This is the version of the tiara that Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother received as part of the inheritance from Mrs. Greville.

Now known as the Greville tiara it became one of the Queen Mother’s favorites which she wore quite frequently.  Then in 1953 the Queen Mother sent the tiara, shown below, to Cartier to be redesigned into a third version.  There was an addition of five raised sections that featured a large marquise diamond with three large round diamonds at the center and four additional sections with each featuring four large round diamonds.   

After the Queen Mother’s death the Greville collection went to her daughter, the present Queen Elizabeth II but she never wore the Greville tiara in public.  Then in 2005 after her marriage to the Prince Charles Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall was given a long term loan of the Greville tiara and it has now become one of her favorites to wear.  

The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara

The Emerald Kokoshnik tiara was commissioned in 1919 by Mrs. Greville and was made by Boucheron.  The tiara is designed in a style known as kokoshnik (a traditional Russian headdress) which was a type of tiara popular with the Russian Imperial Family.  The tiara features pave diamonds set in platinum with a large 93.7 carat cabochon-cut emerald in the center and several smaller square-cut emeralds set on either side.  

The Emerald Kokoshnik tiara was part of the Greville jewelry collection that was inherited by the Queen Mother and then Queen Elizabeth II.  The tiara was never worn by either of the two Queens and in fact it was not seen in public for several decades.  Then in 2018, Queen Elizabeth graciously loaned the tiara to her granddaughter to wear for her wedding to Jack Brooksbank, for more information on this British Royal Wedding please click on the link. 

The Greville Festoon Necklace

The Greville Festoon Necklace is perhaps one of the most extravagant pieces from the Greville jewelry collection that was inherited by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother in 1942.  Mrs. Greville had commissioned Cartier to create the Festoon Necklace in 1929 “repurposing” stones from her previous jewelry.  The original design featured two long strands of diamonds set in platinum; each section of each strand has one large diamond flanked by two smaller diamonds.  A later version of the necklace added an additional shorter three strand necklace; the two pieces (the two strands and the three strands) worn together make a stunning necklace but look equally impressive if worn separately.

After the Queen Mother received the Festoon Necklace it became one of her favorite pieces and she would often were the three strand necklace by itself but for a special occasions she would “dress to impress” by wearing all five strands together with the Greville Tiara.  As she got older the Queen Mother and became frailer she would most often wear only the three strand necklace so as not to overwhelm her small stature.  When the Queen Mother passed away in 2002, the Greville jewelry collection went to her daughter, Queen Elizabeth II. 

After her marriage to Prince Charles, the Queen has given a long term loan of the Festoon Necklace to Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall.  Much like the Queen Mother, the necklace has become one of her favorite pieces and looks very impressive when paired with the Greville Tiara.    

The Greville Ruby and Diamond Floral Bandeau Necklace

Mrs. Greville originally purchased the Ruby and Diamond Floral Bandeau Necklace from Boucheron in 1907.  The intricate floral design of the necklace features rubies and diamonds set in silver and gold and finished with a diamond pendant. 

After the necklace came into the possession of Queen Elizabeth (later known as the Queen Mother) she eventually gave it to her oldest daughter, Princess Elizabeth (later to become Queen Elizabeth II) as a wedding gift when she married Prince Phillip (later known as the Duke of Edinburgh) in 1947. During the 1950s, the newly crowned Queen Elizabeth wore the Rudy and Diamond Bandeau Necklace frequently for her evening engagements but the deep V of the necklace design with the added length of the diamond pendant made it a difficult piece to wear with her evening dresses.  Despite having it shortened, by the 1980s she wore the necklace less often. 

Then in 2017 the Queen loaned the necklace to Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge who paired it beautifully with a blush pink evening gown.   

The Greville Emerald and Diamond Necklace

It has been speculated that the Greville Emerald Necklace was created from emeralds that were once part of a necklace that belonged to Empress Josephine and the diamonds came from a necklace once owned by Marie Antoinette.  This might be an embellished story originating from Mrs. Greville to add even more significance to the impressive necklace.  The Greville Emerald Necklace design featured large square-cut emeralds surrounded by diamonds linked together with a central large rectangular-cut emerald pendant.    

The Greville Emerald Necklace was another beautiful item from the jewelry collection that was inherited by the Queen Mother in 1942 upon the death of Mrs. Greville.  The Queen Mother wore the Greville Emerald Necklace often for state banquets or other important engagements.  The Queen Mother wore it was for a formal portrait in 1990 as seen below with her daughter, Princess Margaret and two of her grandchildren, Prince Andrew and Princess Anne.

The Greville jewelry collection was inherited by Queen Elizabeth in 2002 after the death of the Queen Mother and she has not worn the Greville Emerald Necklace since that time.  Recently it was thought that the necklace she wore to a diplomatic reception at Buckingham Palace in 2019 was made from the Greville Necklace.  The 10 square-shaped emeralds surrounded by diamonds looks very familiar but with the addition of 10 emerald drops.  The Queen wore this new necklace with the Vladimir tiara which was also set with emerald drops that she paired with emerald and diamond earrings.     

The Greville Chandelier Earrings

The Greville Chandelier Earrings were made for Mrs. Greville by Cartier in an Art Deco style and feature diamonds in several different cuts and shapes including emerald, square, pear, baguette and more in a platinum setting.  The earrings were part of the Greville jewelry collection inherited by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother in 1942 upon the death of Mrs. Greville.

When Princess Elizabeth (later to become Queen Elizabeth II) married in 1947 she was given the Greville Chanelier Earrings as a wedding gift from her parents.  Shown below is a 1953 photo of the newly crowned Queen Elizabeth wearing the earrings with the Diamond Diadem. 

Throughout the years the Greville Chandelier Earrings have become one of the Queen’s favorite pieces of jewelry wearing them quite frequently for evening engagements.  

The Greville Peardrop Earrings

The Greville Peardrop earrings were made for Mrs.Greville in 1938 by Cartier and feature two pear-shaped diamonds weighing over 20 carats which are suspended from emerald-cut and pentagonal diamonds and set in platinum.

After Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother inherited the Greville Peardrop Earrings became one of her favorite pieces from the grevillea jewelry collection and she wore them very often.  Upon the Queen Mother’s death in 2002 the Greville Peardrop Earrings were inherited to Queen Elizabeth.        

So, these are just a few of the pieces from the Greville jewelry collection that have been worn by the British Royal family since they were inherited from Mrs. Greville after her death in 1942.

Movie Costumes – Titanic

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In this post I will discuss the costumes worn in the 1997 Titanic film by director James Cameron.  The movie blends the tragic history of the sinking of the RMS Titanic during its maiden voyage with the fictional romantic love story of Jack Dawson and Rose DeWitt Bukater as played by Leonard DiCaprio and Kate Winslet.  The film was both a critical and commercial success winning 11 Academy Awards including Best Picture, Best Director for Cameron and Best Costume Design for Deborah Scott. 

For this post I will specifically focus on the dresses worn by the character of Rose.  The film is set in 1912 which was a time when first class women passengers were expected to travel on a transatlantic trip with an extensive wardrobe required because of the multiple changes per day that were needed according to the various social activities on board the ship.  There were traveling dresses or tailored suits worn when arriving at the departure port or disembarking at their destination, dresses worn in the morning when in the stateroom or while walking on deck, afternoon dresses worn for lunch or tea and of course elegant evening dresses worn for the formal dinners held each night in the grand dining room.  Several sets of undergarments would also be needed for dressing, starting with a chemise and bloomers worn under a corset and then a camisole, petticoat and stockings. Numerous accessories were usually needed to coordinate with each outfit and would include coats, shawls, shoes, gloves, hats and jewelry.  In addition, clothes for sleeping and silken robes to be worn when relaxing in the stateroom would complete the items of clothing required for first class women’s travel wardrobe.

Fashion Note:  Several of the beaded evening dresses worn by the character of Rose in the Titanic movie would be a great inspiration for a bridal dress for a formal wedding.  In fact the black beaded dress with the silk coral underskirt was duplicated in white for the final dream/heaven scene at the end of the film.  In addition, some of the less embellished dresses, such as the white chiffon with the pink sash, would be great style for a bride or bridesmaid dress for a spring or summer wedding. 

TAILORED SUIT

When arriving at a port to embark on an ocean voyage first class woman passengers would often wear their best tailored suit, these type of outfits were also a sensible choice for strolling on board the ship while in the colder climate of the North Atlantic.  A tailored suit, sometimes known as a traveling or walking suit, consisted of a straight “hobble” skirt that tapered to a narrow opening at the ankles thereby restricting movement. Matching jackets would extend over the hips and were often cut asymmetrical to further the illusion of length. White blouse were most often worn underneath, pin tucks or ruffles were sometimes added a feminine element to the severe suit style. 

Rose’s pin-striped traveling suit

In the beginning of the Titanic film a scene shows a women emerging from a car but her face is hidden under a rather large hat.  The dark straw hat features a wide brim with an enormous striped ribbon bow and as she raises her head to look at the towering ship we see that it is Rose.  The pin-striped tailored suit she is wearing features a straight narrow skirt and a matching long jacket with a dark velvet notched lapel accented with a dark belt at the waist, a white blouse with a rounded collar is worn underneath with a black tie; Rose completes her traveling ensemble by wearing sensible shoes, white leather gloves and carrying a parasol.

Movie Note: The large brimmed hat with the elaborate embellishment was a popular trend during the early 1900s and in the film this fashion choice really added to the drama of the scene as the character of Rose is revealed for the first time.

DAY DRESSES, SHAWLS AND COATS

While on board ship, the first class women passengers would continue to take extra care when dressing for lunch or tea since it would be another opportunity to show their high status in society and also their wealth by wearing the latest Parisian fashions.  Day dresses were generally made of silk or cotton material and featured long slim skirts that tapered at the ankles and often had long fitted sleeves.  Sometimes, for colder weather, these dresses would be worn with a matching wool jacket or coat for perhaps a beautiful shawl or luxurious fur coat for the older women.  

Movie Note: To visually aid in contrasting the distinction between the upper class and refined Rose and the lower working class Jack, she wears colorful dresses made in fine fabrics featuring lace and embroidery to define her upper class style while he wears drab brown colored trousers and well-worn shirts.   

Rose’s green lace dress

For lunch on the first full day at sea Rose is in the opulent dining room and she is feeling slightly bored by the dull conversation at the table and also confined by the social restrictions demanded by her mother and fiancé.  She abruptly leaves the table and goes to the ship’s upper class deck to clear her head and it is while standing at the railing looking out to sea that Jack sees her for the first time from below on the third class deck, He is intrigued by her beauty and Rose appears very poised and slightly aloof while she notices Jack staring at her. 

In these scenes, for the cooler North Atlantic climate, Rose is wearing a lovely green day dress with sensible long sleeves and an ankle length skirt featuring layers of beautiful lace, a bold wide red sash with a large fabric rose accents her trim waist.

Rose’s blue velvet dress and silk embroidered shawl

After a misunderstanding, Rose once again goes in search of Jack on board the ship to apologize for her behavior.  She finds him at the front of the ship as the sun is beginning to set over the North Atlantic.  To encourage Rose’s newfound feeling of freedom and to share in the pure joy of the moment, Jack has Rose climb the railing at the bow of the ship to let her experience the unique feeling of seemingly soaring over ocean.  This scene filmed with the background of the dramatic twilight lighting has become one of the most memorable and romantic of the movie.

For this iconic scene Rose is wearing a beautiful blue velvet dress with an ankle length skirt, long sleeves and lace detail at the bodice, worn over the dress is an ivory silk fringed shawl.  The color of the dress is a lovely contrast against her pale porcelain white skin and her stunning red hair. 

Rose’s white chiffon, pink sash dress and pink coat

After a scandalous rendezvous in Rose’s stateroom where Jack sketches her posing nude while wearing the extravagant “heart of the ocean” necklace (more on that piece of jewelry at the end of this post!) the couple is discovered and escape running into the various lower portions of the ship until they emerge onto the deck just in time to see the ship collide with an iceberg.  Rose and Jack return to the stateroom to inform her mother that the ship is sinking and the passengers are being evacuated.  Meanwhile her fiancé, after learning that Rose and Jack are now romantically involved, in a jealous rage unjustly accuses Jack of stealing the “heart of the ocean” necklace.  Throughout their remaining hours on board the sinking Titanic Rose and Jack are separated numerous times and they struggle to remain together until the ship goes down in the frigid waters of the north Atlantic Ocean.

In these final scenes of the film Rose is wearing an ethereal multi-layered white silk chiffon dress accented with shades of lavender layered across the bodice, light and darker pink silk sashes are draped around the high waist, tied and cascade down the back of the dress.  Then, as the passengers prepare to board the lifeboats, Rose is seen wearing a full length coat over her white dress as protection from the cold.  The coat is made of pink wool which is lined in matching pink silk and features black silk braiding at the collar and cuffs.  Rose eventually takes off the coat as the water begins to flood the ship as she searches for Jack.  When the couple is reunited and they return on deck Jack has gallantly gives Rose his long dark coat (more on the importance of the coat later in this post!)   

Movie Note:  Much like the fashion choice used in the film with the dramatic reveal of Rose hidden by the large hat, the dress she wears during these final scenes of the sinking of the Titanic was probably used to convey a subtle meaning.  At this point in the story Rose has rejected the social restrictions set by her mother and fiancé and must importantly she feels happiness in her love for Jack.  The white chiffon dress was an important choice because it appears so much lighter in style without the heavy embellishments of Rose’s other dresses worn earlier in the film and this helps to convey the change in her newfound feeling of freedom.   

EVENING DRESSES

During the long Victorian Era (1837 to 1901) women’s fashions were more modest in style with high collars and long sleeves, full skirts worn with several layers of heavy petticoats or crinoline and waistlines pulled in with uncomfortable corsets to achieve the desired hourglass silhouette.  Then, during the shorter period of time known as the Edwardian Era (1901 to 1910) the style of women’s fashions became more relaxed with narrower skirts worn with a single petticoat and less restricting corsets to create a long and slim silhouette.  The elegant evening dresses were more daring with lower necklines and shorter sleeves, these dresses were made with luxurious rich fabric such as silk and embellished with heavy beading and netting.   

Rose’s black and red evening dress

In a dramatic scene when a distraught Rose is holding onto the railing of the Titanic and contemplating jumping, Jack gallantly saves her and this is the moment when they first meet and their love story begins.

In this scene Rose is wearing a stunning black and red evening dress that features a narrow skirt, high waist and cap sleeves.  The dress is made of a rich red satin material with an overlay of black tulle netting that is embellished with embroidery and beading.

Rose’s black and deep coral evening dress

After the ordeal of Rose almost jumping, Jack receives an invitation to dine in the upper class section of the ship as a thank you for his rescuing her.  Jack is loaned a formal tuxedo since his lower class clothing would not be acceptable in the opulent dining room where the tables were set with crisp white linens, bone china, crystal glassware and numerous silverware. Later Rose and Jack join a festive and very lively party below deck in the lower class section of the ship

For these scenes Rose is wearing another beautiful evening dress.  The dress is made of a lovely deep coral taffeta with overlapping layers of black netting that is heavily embroidered and beaded. To complement her ensemble Rose is wearing long white gloves, a diamond necklace and earrings, her long red hair is worn in a loose bun and intertwined within her curls are long strands of beading to match the dress.     

Rose’s white beaded evening dress

In the final scene of the movie, in a heavenly dream we see the young Rose being reunited with Jack back on board the Titanic.  As the camera moves around the area of the grand staircase the couple is surrounded by a crowd of people, including the ship’s captain, the crew and several passengers who had all perished when the ship sank in 1912.

For this scene Rose is wearing a duplicate of the black and coral evening gown but this version is made of white taffeta and white beading, her hair is worn in loose curls.    

JEWLERY

Rose’s enameled butterfly hair comb

When watching a report on the artifacts that are discovered among the wreckage of the RMS Titanic, an elderly Rose is shocked when she sees Jack’s sketch of her that was done so many years ago and she makes arrangements to be flown out to the research ship.  As she looks at the items retrieved from the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean she picks up a lovely enameled butterfly hair comb that she had worn during her time on the Titanic … and the memories start to come back to her and she begins to tell the story on what happened on that fateful maiden voyage.

Rose can be seen wearing the butterfly hair comb in the iconic romantic scene when she is at the bow of the Titanic.  The Art Nouveau design of the hair comb was a popular style during the late 19th and early 20th century and frequently featured very artistic designs of all different types of flora and fauna.  In this case the tortoiseshell hair comb had a large butterfly that was probably made in celluloid or glass cabochon in a lovely jade color and then hand finished with enamel detailing.

Movie Note:  There were actually two different butterfly hair combs used in the Titanic film, one is made to look like it was just bought by Rose during a shopping trip to Paris or London while the second one has an aged and worn look because it was supposed have been found in the ship’s wreckage at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean.

Heart of the Ocean necklace

While on the ship, Cal (Rose’s fiancé) has presented her with a stunning necklace known as the “Heart of the Ocean”. This is the same piece of jewelry that is worn when Rose scandalously asks Jack to sketch her in the nude.  The necklace is also used for a pivotal moment in the story when Cal unjustly accuses Jack of attempting to “steal” the priceless necklace. 

The “Heart of the Ocean” necklace in the Titanic film was inspired by the famous Hope Diamond (for more information, please watch for an upcoming post on this blog).  The necklace in the story was supposed to be a 171 carat heart-shaped Ceylon sapphire surrounded by 103 diamonds and set in platinum.  In fact, the prop necklace was made by Asprey & Garrard and features a large blue cubic zirconia to simulate the sapphire and clear cubic zirconia to simulate the diamonds set in white gold.     

Spoiler Alert: It is later, after Jack has died, and Rose is onboard the rescue ship that she reaches into the pocket of the coat that Jack had graciously given to her to protect her against cold temperature as the Titanic sank in the water of the North Atlantic Ocean.  She is shocked at the discovery but interestingly in all the years following the tragedy she never tells anyone that she has the expensive necklace!

After the success of the Titanic film, the Asprey & Garrard Jewelers created a duplicate Heart of the Ocean necklace which was donated to Sotheby’s auction house for an auction with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fund.  This version of the Heart of the Ocean necklace was eventually donated to the Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage Center (formerly known as the National Shipwreck Museum) located in Charleston, Cornwall in England where it can be currently seen on display.  

Movie Note:  It is the “Heart of the Ocean” necklace that the research crew is trying to find in the wreckage of the RMS Titanic.  In a very controversial scene at the end of the film, the elderly Rose steps onto the railing of the research ship and the “Heart of the Ocean” necklace slips through her hands and falls into the water of the North Atlantic Ocean. 

It is almost the exact spot where the doomed Titanic had hit an iceberg on the night of April 14 and sank within a few hours in the early morning of April 15 while making its first transatlantic voyage from Southampton, England to New York City in 1912.  Sadly, an estimated 1500 of the approximately 2200 passengers and crew died making it one of the worst marine disasters in modern history. 

A British Royal Bride – Princess Elizabeth

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Last week, in the another post on the ongoing series on British Royal Weddings, I featured the wedding of Princess Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth II) and Philip Mountbatten (the Duke of Edinburgh); they were married on November 20, 1947 at Westminster Abbey in London, England.  In this post, I will discuss the bridal dress and accessories which Princess Elizabeth wore on her wedding day and I will also discuss some of the jewelry that she received as wedding gifts from Prince Philip as well as other members of the Royal family.

Princess Elizabeth’s Wedding Dress and Bridal Accessories 

It has been said that Norman Hartnell, the designer of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress, took inspiration from the Italian Renaissance painting “La Primavera” by Sandro Botticelli. The painting was created to commemorate the 1482 wedding of Lorenzo di Pierfrancesco, a cousin of Lorenzo Medici and depicts the coming of Spring.  It features several mythical characters such as Venus, Zephyrus, Mercury, Flora, the Three Graces and even Cupid.  (The “La Primavera” painting is currently on display in the Uffizi Art Museum located in Florence, Italy)

“La Primavera” painting by Sandro Botticelli

At the time of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding England was still recovering from World War II with rationing still enforced due to shortages and import restrictions.  It has been noted that many people sent in their own clothing ration coupons so that Princess Elizabeth could purchase the material for a wedding gown but because it was illegal to use rations issued to another person the coupons were returned.  To make a wedding dress which was appropriate for the heir to the throne, the British government issued Princess Elizabeth 200 extra coupons to help defray the cost.

Because of the lingering hostilities toward Germany, Japan and Italy, Hartnell made sure that no materials were used from those countries when he created Princess Elizabeth’s wedding gown.  He designed a beautiful ivory silk satin dress embellished with embroidery and thousands of crystals and pearls imported from the United States.  Known for incorporating elaborate embroidery, Hartnell’s dress design featured jasmine, smilax, lilac, wheat and roses.  The silk tulle 15 feet train was embellished with embroidered and a beaded pattern of wheat and roses with appliqué duchess satin stars, the train was attached to the shoulders.  (Special Note: Hartnell would later design the dress for Queen Elizabeth II Coronation dress in 1953)

Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress on display

The embroidered and beaded details of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress

The embroidered and beaded details of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding veil

Special Note: Unfortunately in the decades that followed, the silk material used to make Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress has deteriorated from the weight of the embroidery and beading.  Special care is taken by the curators of the British Royal Collection to preserve the wedding dress and occasionally it will go on display for the public to view.

On her wedding day Princess Elizabeth completed her bridal ensemble by wearing shoes made by Rayne.  The company was originally founded in 1899 as a theatrical costumier and later in the 1920s they created a line of couture shoes.  The wedding shoes made for Princess Elizabeth featured a sling back, open toe, medium high heel sandal made of ivory duchess satin with silver buckles and pearl accents.

Princess Elizabeth’s wedding veil 

Princess Elizabeth wore a silk tulle 13 foot veil that was slightly shorten in length then the dress train which created a beautiful yet soft effect.  The veil was attached to her head by the diamond Fringe Tiara that was the “something borrowed” and had originally belonged to her grandmother Queen Mary.  Just before leaving Buckingham Palace for Westminster Abbey the tiara unfortunately broke but luckily the court jeweler was able to repair the damage.

Princess Elizabeth’s wedding veil and the Fringe Tiara

The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara

Speical Note:  The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara was made by Garrard & Co. in 1919 from the diamonds of a necklace previously given to then Princess May of Teck (later Queen Mary) as a wedding present from Queen Victoria.  The tiara has 47 bars of diamonds with smaller diamond spikes.  In 1936, Queen Mary gave the tiara to her daughter-in-law Princess Elizabeth the Duchess of York (later Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother).

Princess Elizabeth’s wedding bouquet

The wedding bouquet that Princess Elizabeth carried on her wedding day was created by Martin Longman, a British florist (Longman would later create the Coronation bouquet for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953).  Princess Elizabeth’s wedding bouquet was made of white orchids and a sprig of myrtle, a royal custom started during the time of Queen Victoria.  The day after the wedding, according to the royal wedding tradition set by the bride’s mother in 1923, the bouquet was placed upon the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Westminster Abbey.  (Special Note:  Many years later an identical copy of the bridal bouquet was made and presented to Queen Elizabeth II at the time of her Golden wedding anniversary in 1997)

Prince Philip and Princess Elizabeth on their wedding day

Princess Elizabeth’s bridal bouquet placed on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Princess Elizabeth’s bridal jewelry

On her wedding day, Princess Elizabeth wore two pearl necklaces. The shorter one was known as the Queen Anne necklace, possibly belonging to the last Stuart Queen of England.  The longer one was known as the Queen Caroline necklace which had belonged to the wife of King George II.  Both necklaces became the possession of Queen Victoria and upon her death they were left them to the Crown.  Prior to the wedding day King George VI, the bride’s father, gave them to Princess Elizabeth as a wedding present.

Princess Elizabeth’s pearl necklaces

The pearl and diamond earrings that Princess Elizabeth wore on her wedding day were a 20th birthday present from her grandmother, Queen Mary, who had originally inherited them from her mother, Princess Mary Adelaide of (Cambridge) Teck.

Princess Elizabeth’s pearl and diamond earrings

Prince Philip’s wedding gift for his bride was a beautiful diamond bracelet.  Like the engagement ring he had previously commissioned, the bracelet was created from diamonds from a tiara that had once belonged to his mother, the Princess Andrew of Greece and Denmark.  The bracelet featured several links design in a geometric pattern with three large center diamonds set in platinum.

Princess Elizabeth’s diamond bracelet

In the years that followed Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II) wore the sentimental bracelet for many formal occasions including for the official Diamond Jubilee photographs take in 2012 to commemorate that significant event.  Most recently, the queen has loaned the bracelet to the Duchess of Cambridge who wore it when she attended her first state banquet in 2015.

Official Diamond Jubilee portrait of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip taken in 2012

Princess Elizabeth’s bridesmaids

The bridesmaids’ dresses were also made by Norman Hartnell, they were a tulle gown with an embroidered and beaded floral design and a matching tulle wrap fastened with a bow.  The bridesmaids wore hair wreaths of white wheat sheaves and lilies made of white satin and silver lame, they also carried bouquets of white orchids similar in style to the bride’s bouquet.  The two young pages that carried the train of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress wore Royal Stewart tartan kilts.

   Princess Margaret – the principal bridesmaid at her sister’s wedding

British Royal Brides Wedding Dress Hidden Messages

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The wedding dress hidden message trend has been used throughout the years (centuries) and sometimes a bride will include a hidden sentimental touch to her wedding dress by incorporating a monogram, the wedding date or a blue silk thread for her “something blue”.  Most recently the hidden message trend has become very popular with today’s modern brides. For some inspiration I will discuss several British Royal brides, such as Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth, Catherine Middleton, Meghan Markle and Princess Eugenie that have incorporated hidden messages into their wedding dresses with their choice of fabric selections, embroidery embellishments or dress designs. 

Queen Victoria

Queen Victoria was known in her later years as always wearing black mourning after her beloved Prince Albert died but she also set many wedding trends such as wearing a white wedding dress to the Royal tradition of adding myrtle to a wedding bouquet.  As Queen Victoria prepared for her marriage to Prince Albert in February 1840 she made many decisions about her wedding dress based on personal and political reasons.

The first fashion decision Queen Victoria made was a personal choice for the color of her wedding dress.  At the time most Royal brides had most often worn wedding dresses made of the finest fabric embellished with precious gold or silver threads to reflect their elite status.  It is possible that for this reason Queen Victoria selected a simple white cream fabric because she wanted to convey a hidden message to her future husband that although he was marrying the British monarch she was still just a woman who was marrying the man she loved.  Special Note: Since that time, based on Queen Victoria’s unique color choice, the white wedding dress became very popular for many generations of brides and throughout the years it has come to mean innocence and purity which are virtues long associated with the Victorian era.

Queen Victoria also selected the Spitafields silk fabric as a hidden message in promoting the British manufacturer for political and economic reasons since with the onset of mechanical looms that mass produced cheaper and inferior quality fabric made available for the middle and lower classes which ultimately affected the English silk industry and caused sales to dramatically decline.       

Queen Victoria’s wedding dress on display – photo from the Royal Collection trust

Queen Victoria’s choice of lace was also selected as a hidden message for political and economic reasons.  The fashion style of the time used imported Brussels lace but because Queen Victoria was the monarch of England she also wanted to promote and revive the failing British Honiton lace industry.  Honiton lace was used for the trim on her wedding dress and also for her bridal veil. 

Queen Victoria’s wedding veil – photo from the Royal Collection Trust

Another hidden message, to perhaps remind Prince Albert that although he was marrying a queen she was still just a woman marrying the man she loved, Queen Victoria made a personal choice to wear a wreath of orange blossoms to secure her veil to her head instead of a Royal crown or tiara that would befit her status as monarch. 

For more detailed information about the wedding of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert and also Queen Victoria, a British Royal Bride please click on the links.

Queen Elizabeth II (formerly Princess Elizabeth)

Much like her great-great grandmother Queen Victoria, when the young Princess Elizabeth (later to become Queen Elizabeth II) married Prince Phillip in 1947 she also made many decisions about her wedding dress based on personal and political reasons.  At the time of her wedding Britain was still recovering from World War II and rationing of food and other goods was still in effect so the British government issued Princess Elizabeth 200 extra coupons to help defray the cost.  A political decision was made by the Palace, that in order to boost the morale of the country, Princess Elizabeth’s wedding would be a national event with all pomp and circumstances expected for the heir to the British throne. 

Another political reason which was a hidden message was the selection of the material for Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress.  Silk material made in Britain from the silkworms imported from China, not wartime enemies such as Japan and Italy, was used.  Also the crystals and pearls used for the wedding dress embellishments were imported from the United States.

Princess Elizabeth made a personal decision with the fashion designer Norman Hartnell when it came to the style of her wedding dress and she selected a romantic dress design inspired by the Italian Renaissance painting “La Primavera” by Botticelli.  Known for incorporating elaborate embroidery, Hartnell designed Princess Elizabeth’s beautiful ivory silk satin dress with a hidden message of renewal and hope that featured flowers such as jasmine, smilax, lilac, wheat and roses.  The silk tulle train was also embellished with an embroidered and beaded pattern of wheat and roses with appliqué duchess satin stars. 

Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress on display – photo from the Royal Collection Trust

Embroidery and bead details of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding dress

Embroidery and bead details of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding veil

For more detailed information about the wedding of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Phillip and also Princess Elizabeth, a British Royal Bride please click on the link.

Katherine Middleton (now the Duchess of Cambridge)

When Katherine Middleton married Prince William in 2011 she worked closely with Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen to design her lovely wedding dress, in keeping with the Royal bridal tradition Katherine had selected a British designer.  In a subtle hidden message to honor the four countries of the United Kingdom, the national emblems were incorporated into the lovely floral lace design of Katherine’s wedding dress; the rose for England, the daffodil for Wales, the thistle for Scotland and the shamrock for Ireland. 

Katherine Middleton’s wedding dress on display – photo from the Royal Collection Trust

Katherine Middleton’s wedding dress lace details

In a sweet hidden message in accordance with the Old English rhyme, “something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue, and a silver sixpence in her shoe.”, for good luck Katherine had requested that a blue ribbon be sewn into the bodice of her wedding dress. (For more detailed information about Katherine Middleton, a British Royal Bride, please check back later on this blog for a future post)

For more detailed information about the wedding of Prince William and Katherine Middleton please click on the link.

Meghan Markle

When Meghan Markle married Prince Harry in 2018 she selected the British designer Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy to design her elegant wedding dress.  To compliment the simplicity of the wedding dress, Meghan’s bridal veil was designed with delicate embroidery.  In a hidden message to honor the United Kingdom, Meghan had requested the flowers representing each of the 53 countries of the Commonwealth would be incorporated into the design of the bridal veil. 

Meghan Markle’s wedding dress on display – photo from the Royal Collection Trust

Meghan Markle’s wedding veil

Meghan Markle’s wedding veil details

Meghan also had the designer include two very personal hidden messages into the design of her bridal veil.  As an American-born bride and to honor the state where she was born Meghan requested that the California poppy be embroidered onto the bridal veil.  In addition, Meghan had the designer also include a very sentimental hidden message and a small piece of fabric from the dress that she wore on her first date with Prince Harry was sewn into the veil as her “something blue”.

For more detailed information about the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle and An American Bride – Meghan Markle, please click on the links.

Princess Eugenie

When Princess Eugenie became engaged Jack Brooksbank one of the first decisions she made was that her wedding dress would be designed with a low back to show the surgery scar that she had to correct her scoliosis. Since the surgery was such a defining moment in her life as a significant medical condition she overcame, Eugenie also decided not to wear a wedding veil so that the scar would be visible. 

The beautiful wedding dress Eugenie wore for her wedding in 2018 was designed by British-based designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos.  The fabric was custom made with several hidden messages incorporated into the design; the York rose to honor her father’s Royal heritage, the shamrock to honor her mother’s Irish heritage, the thistle to honor the bridal couple’s love for Balmoral in Scotland and lastly the ivy to represent the their home at Kensington Palace known as Ivy Cottage. 

Princess Eugenie’s wedding dress

Princess Eugenie also request an additional sentimental hidden message and she had the designers sew Mrs. Brooksbank into the lining of her wedding gown.

For more detailed information about the wedding of Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank please click on the link.

Movie Costumes – White Christmas

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This month the classic “White Christmas” movie from Paramount Pictures premiered 65 years ago in 1954 featuring the songs of Irving Berlin and starring Bing Crosby (as Bob Wallace) with Danny Kaye (as Phil Davis), Rosemary Clooney (as Betty Haynes) and Vera-Ellen (as Judy Haynes).

In this post I will be discussing the movie costumes designed by Edith Head for the White Christmas film, specifically six dresses worn by actresses Rosemary Clooney and Vera-Ellen.  Mrs. Head was a famous costume designer who worked at Paramount Pictures for 44 years before moving onto Universal Pictures.  (For more information, please look for a future post about the eight time Academy Award winner Edith Head and her illustrious career designing for some of the most beautiful women in Hollywood)

Special Note: Any of these six dress designs from the White Christmas film could be a great inspiration for a bridal gown or bridesmaid dress.  In particular the two black evening gowns, when made in white, would be very sexy bridal gowns while the blue lace and pink chiffon dresses would be lovely bridesmaid dresses for a spring/summer wedding and the green velvet dress would be a beautiful bridesmaid dress for a fall/winter wedding.

The Blue Lace Dress (“Sisters”)

This is the first time in the film that we see the characters of Betty and Judy Haynes preforming at a local Miami nightclub to a song appropriately called “Sisters”.

The Haynes sisters are wearing matching blue lace dresses which featured a high neckline, long sleeves, a fitted bodice and a full skirt with layers of crinolines.  To complete their ensemble the sisters are wearing long blue gloves to match the dresses and they are carrying large blue feathered fans that are used very artfully during the musical number.  

Special Note:  The blue lace dress would be a great inspiration for a bridesmaids dress but I would suggest a round open neckline instead and perhaps skipping the matching blue gloves and feather fans!

The Pink Chiffon Dress (“The Best Things Happen While You’re Dancing”)

 “The Best Things” musical number takes place outside the nightclub on the docks (it is one of my personal favorite scenes in the movie).  Judy is wearing a lovely pale pink chiffon dress that features a high neckline, large billowy sleeves, a tight bodice with a criss-cross detail and a full skirt with a darker pink crinoline shown underneath.  Phil in dressed in a grey suit with a white shirt and black tie, he is also wearing matching grey socks and grey shoes.

Bonus Dress: Betty is wearing a sexy periwinkle chiffon dress with a matching wrap.

Special Note:  Either the pink or periwinkle chiffon dresses would be a wonderful inspiration for a bridesmaid dress for a spring or summer wedding.  Also, the grey suit worn by Phil would be a great style for a groom, best man or usher.

The Black Sequin Dress (“Minstrel Number”)

For the full dress rehearsal of the Minstrel musical number Betty is wearing a black sequin long dress with just a peak of red showing at the daring strapless sweetheart neckline and, as you can see in the second photo below, at the back of the dress is a red tulle train.  Betty’s ensemble is completed with red sequin gloves and red sparkly bangles.      

Special Note:  For a formal evening wedding the black sequin long dress would be a great style for a white bridal gown.  The train at the back could be made in sparkle white tulle or if the bride wants a more colorful look and a touch of something blue she can use blue tulle!

The Green Velvet Dress

At the “fake” engagement party for Phil and Judy, Betty wears a dark green velvet dress with a very simple but elegant style.  The dress features cap sleeves, a tight bodice and a full skirt, detailing at the v-neck front and back of the dress add an interesting element.   

Special Note:  The dark green velvet dress would be a perfect style for a bridesmaid dress for a fall or winter wedding, the color and the type of fabric would be very suitable for the season.

The Black Long Dress (“Love, You Didn’t Do Right by Me”)

For the sultry “Love, You Didn’t Do Right by Me” musical number in the Carousel Nightclub Betty is wearing a sexy black velvet “fit and flair” long dress which features a daring deep v-neckline at the front and back, to complete the ensemble she is wearing long white silk gloves.   The best surprise of the dress is when Betty turns away from the camera to reveal the large rhinestone brooch pinned very low at the back of the dress!       

Special Note:  The style of the black “fit and flare” dress would be stunning made in white velvet for an evening winter wedding … and don’t forget to add a large rhinestone brooch pinned to the back!

Movie Note:  During the musical number in the nightclub one of the dancers in the scene is a young George Chakiris.  Seven years later he would go on to play the character Bernardo in the 1961 movie, “West Side Story”, he won an Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor for his work in the film.

The Red Satin and White Fur Dress (“White Christmas”)

For the musical finale of the White Christmas movie both Betty and Judy are wearing long red satin dresses with a full skirt and trimmed with white fur.  If you look closely there are some variations of the two dresses, Betty’s featured a narrow shawl collar with a large red berry and gold leaf brooch while Judy’s dress has a high collar neckline and a small cape trimmed with white fur.  To complete their outfits both are wearing red satin gloves and white fur muffs.        

Special Note:  The style of the dress worn for the “White Christmas” finale musical number would be a great inspiration for a bridal dress for a winter wedding.  Just image how a white satin and white fur trimmed bridal dress would look for an evening wedding!

An American Bride – Jaqueline Bouvier Kennedy

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Previously I wrote a post about the Wedding of John Kennedy and Jaqueline Bouvier (known more informally as Jackie) which took place on September 12, 1953.  In this post, I will discuss the wedding dress and bridal accessories which Jackie wore on her wedding.  I will also discuss some of the jewelry that she received as wedding gifts from the groom, her parents and her new in-laws.

Jackie Bouiver’s wedding dress –

The wedding dress of Jackie Bouvier was designed by Ann Lowe and made of ivory silk taffeta and featured an off-the-shoulder neckline, fitted bodice and a very full skirt.  The skirt was embellished with flounces and swirls using 50 yards of crème colored faille (plain weave fabric made of silk with a lustrous finish).  To complete her wedding ensemble, Jackie choose to wear white gloves with the dress.

Jackie Bouvier Kennedy in her wedding dress

Special Note:  Jackie had always said that she intensely disliked the elaborate bridal dress that she wore on her wedding day and felt that it was too much dress for her.  Like most young brides, she had felt pressure from her mother to choose the more traditional style but personally would have preferred a wedding dress with more simple and chic lines.  Then, one week before the wedding disaster struck when the New York showroom of Anne Lowe, the dress designer, suffered severe water damage from a broken pipe.  The wedding dress and the bridesmaids’ dresses were ruined and Lowe and her staff needed to remake all the dresses in less than seven days. (it had previously taken eight weeks for the dresses to be made)

Jackie Bouvier’s wedding veil –

For something borrowed, Jackie wore her Grandmother Lee’s rose point lace veil.  The story behind the veil dates back to 1903 when Jackie’s maternal grandmother, Margaret Merritt wore it for her wedding to James Lee.  After Jackie married John Kennedy, her first cousin Mary Ryan wore the veil in 1957 when she married William Cecil who was the grandson of George Vanderbilt.

Jackie wearing her grandmother’s wedding veil

Special Note: For an additional something borrowed Jackie also carried a lace handkerchief of her mother’s.  For something blue she had the traditional blue garter and for something new she wore a diamond and pearl bracelet which the groom had given to her the night before the wedding (more on her bridal jewelry later).

Jackie Bouvier’s wedding bouquet –

For the wedding ceremony, Jackie carried a small bridal bouquet of pink and white orchids, fragrant gardenias and stephanotis.  Since the end of World War II orchids had become a very popular choice for bridal bouquet in the United States and England.  Near the end of the reception Jackie held the traditional bouquet toss from the stairs in the house at Hammersmith Farm.

John and Jackie Kennedy on their wedding day (please note her lovely bouquet)
and Jackie later at the reception doing the traditional bouquet toss

Jackie Bouvier’s wedding accessories –

As previously mentioned, on the night before the wedding John Kennedy gave Jackie a beautiful diamond and pearl bracelet which she wore on her wedding day.  Jackie also wore a pearl necklace which was a gift from her mother and step-father.  The third item that she wore was a diamond leaf brooch that was a gift from her new in-laws, Joseph and Rose Kennedy.

The diamond and pearl bracket
that John Kennedy gave Jackie Kennedy as a wedding gift

The bridesmaids dresses –

John and Jackie had a rather large wedding party – the best man and nine ushers with a matron and a maid of honor and ten bridesmaids.  The bride’s attendants wore pink taffeta dresses with a round neckline and cap sleeves.

For more information regarding the wedding ceremony and reception of John and Jackie Kennedy please click on the link.

TV Weddings – Downton Abbey

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With the Downton Abbey movie opening in theaters on September 20, 2019 I thought I would revisit the weddings that took place during the six seasons of the popular period drama television series. In this post, I will discuss the wedding dresses worn by the Crawley sisters, Lady Mary and Lady Edith, for both their first and second weddings which took place in seasons three and six.  The third and youngest Crawley sister, Lady Sybil, had eloped and although it was part of the storyline viewers did not see her wedding.  Then, in season five there is the wedding of Lady Rose, the high-spirted second cousin who has come to live at Downton Abbey.  Lady Rose has not one but two bridal outfits and viewers get to see two beautiful bridal outfits, one for the registry office ceremony and another for the evening reception.  I will also discuss the wedding outfits of several of the servants of Downtown Abbey which include Daisy the kitchen maid and Anna Lady Mary’s maid both in season two and in season and Mrs. Hughes housekeeper at Downton Abbey in season six.

But first I would like to start with some brief information about the original series.  Downton Abbey was the wonderful creation of Julian Fellowes (Academy Award winner for best original screenplay for the 2001 movie “Gosford Park).  Gareth Neame of Carnival Films had an idea to produce an Edwardian-era television drama show and approached Fellowes to write the script.  Fellowes had just come off the success of Gosford Park and was reluctant to do another period piece, but he took on the project and wrote an outline for the series which he has said was influenced by Edith Wharton’s book, “The Custom of the Country”.  Downton Abbey first aired in England on ITV in September 26 2010 and then on PBS in the United States as a Masterpiece Classic in January 9 2011.  The sixth and final season has aired in England during the last months of 2015 and during the first months of 2016 in the United States.

As season one and two unfolds Lady Sybil, the youngest Crawley daughter, and Tom Branson share a growing attraction to one another and the couple plans to secretly run away to Gretna Green to elope but they are found by Lady Mary and Lady Edith before the marriage takes place (season two episode 7).  Lord Grantham threatens to disinherit Lady Sybil, but eventually he gives his blessing and the couple is married and move to Ireland as season two comes to an end.  Unfortunately for viewers, the wedding takes place off camera and denied seeing Lady Sybil in her wedding dress.  (Shown below are Lady Sybil and Tom Branson)

In season two episode 5, William had returned from World War I severely injured and he is brought back to Downton.  William asks Daisy to marry him before he dies, this will provide her with hid pension.  Daisy is torn, because she is not truly in love with William but Mr. Mason, William’s father, and Mrs. Patmore, the cook, convince her to do this for William.  The wedding takes place in one of the upstairs bedrooms by the local vicar and the bed is decorated with floral swags and Daisy is wearing her best dress for the ceremony with her hair arranged in a pretty style.  Sadly, William dies a few hours later.  (Shown below are two photos of the wedding ceremony, the one on the left shows a close-up photo of Daisy’s hairstyle)

There is another wedding that involves two of the Downton servants, Mr. Bates and Anna, which takes place during season two in episode 7 Mr. Bates is the personal valet to the Earl of Grantham and Anna is Lady Mary’s maid, the couple falls in love and after several troublesome obstacles they finally get married and the viewers are allowed a quick glimpse of the wedding ceremony but there is no wedding reception.  As Anna herself says, “I’d rather have the right man than the right wedding”.  As was customary for her station in society, for the ceremony at the registry office Anna wears her best outfit which is a starched white blouse, blue skirt, black hat and she carries a bouquet of wildflowers.  (Shown below are two photos of Mr. Bates and Anna on their wedding day)

  

Then, during season three of the Downton Abbey television show there was the weddings of the two remaining Crawley sisters.  The first was the much anticipated wedding of Lady Mary to Matthew Crawley as shown in episode one to start the season.  The wedding ceremony took place at St. Michael and All Angels Church, the local church in the Downton.  Lady Mary’s wedding gown was in fitting with the time period, the third season is set between the years 1920 to 1921, and was custom made under the direction of the Downton Abbey television show’s costume designer, Caroline McCall.  Lady Mary’s gown is an ivory column dress with a dropped waistline, long sheer sleeves and a chapel-length train embellished with lace details, pearl beading and Swarovski crystals.  The Grantham family tiara, a beautiful 45-carat diamond tiara was used to secure a veil and, to complete her bridal ensemble, Lady Mary carried a simple bouquet of white Calla lilies.  (Shown below are several photos of Lady Mary in her wedding dress and with her handsome groom, Matthew)

   

Below are several more photos of the wedding.  The photo on the left shows Cora, the Countess of Grantham and the mother of the bride, flanked by her daughters, Lady Edith and Lady Sybil, all dressed in lovely pastel dresses with hats embellished with artificial flowers and satin ribbons.  The photo on the right shows both of Lady Mary’s grandmothers, the conservative Violet the Dowager Countess and the more flamboyant American-born Martha Levinson wearing her fur and feathers.

  

For episode three of season three, Lady Edith is finally the center of attention as she prepares for her wedding to Anthony Strallan.  Caroline McCall, the Downton Abbey television show’s costume designer, was inspired by a vintage silk train which was embellished with flowers and crystals which would be attached to the shoulders of the dress with embroidered flowers styled to match those on the train.  Based on a similar Lanvin design, the ivory silk dress is softly gathered at the hip with more embroidered flower accents and it is both simple and elegant.  Lady Edith, like her sister, also wore her veil attached with Grantham tiara which was a wonderful tradition commonly done with important pieces of jewelry by members of other aristocratic families.  Sadly, as beautiful she looked on her wedding day, Lady Edith was jilted at the altar by Strallan who did not want to burden her with a life married to an older invalid.  (Shown below are several photos of Lady Edith wearing her lovely wedding gown)

  

  

Below is a photo of Lady Edith with her sisters, Lady Mary and Lady Sybil, before the ill-fated wedding.  Lady Mary is wearing a lovely pastel blue dress and Lady Sybil in a lavender dress, both are wearing hats.

The next Downton wedding to take place was in season five episode 8 and it was the happy occasion of Lady Rose to Atticus Aldridge.  In this episode preparations are underway for the wedding and Lady Rose will be wearing two special bridal outfits, one for the registry office ceremony and another for the grand reception later that night.  The dress for the wedding ceremony was a pastel blue dress with embroidered embellishments inspired by a vintage collar that Caroline McCall, the Downton Abbey costume designer, had found in Paris.  The hat was decorated with preserved real roses done by the wardrobe department’s milliner.  The second dress for the reception was also a vintage find at a shop in London and it was a beautiful ivory silk tulle dress with gold beading and worn with matching silk opera-length gloves.  Two of the preserved roses were pinned behind Lady Rose’s ears and more of the roses were used to create a wedding bouquet with little vintage wax flowers, pearls and gilded ferns.  (Shown below are several photos of Lady Rose wearing her two wedding outfits)

  

During season six there is a trio of special weddings during the final season of Downton Abbey.  The first takes place in episode 3 and it is the wedding of Mrs. Hughes and Mr. Carson, he is the head butler and she is the housekeeper at Downton Abbey.  While selecting her bridal outfit both Mrs. Patmore, the cook and Lady Mary are unhappy with Mrs. Hughes choice of what they think of as a drab mauve dress for the special occasion.  Lady Mary suggests Lady Grantham’s velvet coat with stunning lace and beaded embellishments and while they are trying it on Lady Grantham walks in on the women and she is very upset that they are in her bedroom trying on her personal clothes but in the end she calms down and kindly gives Mrs. Hughes the beautiful coat to wear on her wedding day.  (Shown below are several photos of Mrs. Hughes wearing her wedding outfit and another photo of the guests gathered for the ceremony)

  

Then, in episode 8 of season six, the fate of Lady Mary is quickly settled when she weds Henry Talbot.  Remember Lady Mary’s first husband Matthew died in a tragic car accident shortly after the birth of their son, and her choice of a bridal dress for her second wedding was almost, dare I say it, matronly!  The ivory dress features a deep V-front with embroidered detailing and long sleeves.  Lady Mary wears a simple pearl necklace and for the church ceremony she wears a hat embellished with artificial flowers and netting.  Instead of a bridal bouquet, Lady Mary wears a floral corsage pinned on the left side of her dress.  (The photos below show Lady Mary wearing her wedding outfit and another photo shows her with her new husband, Henry)

    

Finally, in the series finale (the 2015 Christmas special) of Downton Abbey, Lady Edith finds the love and happiness she deserves when she weds Bertie Pelham, the new Marchioness of Hexham.  Lady Edith looked absolutely beautiful in her lace short sleeved wedding dress and, since she was denied a conclusion to her first attempt at marriage, she wore a lace veil with a beaded headband instead of the Grantham tiara.  (Shown below are several photos of Lady Edith in her wedding dress and with her new husband, Bertie)

    

Special Note:  Portions of this post come from by other blog, theenchantedmanor.com For more on the Downton Abbey television series, please click on the link and to see more costumes worn by the women of Downton Abbey throughout the years, please click on the link to Downton Abbey Fashions – Part One

Movie Costumes – Ginger Rogers

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Ginger Rogers (July 16,1911–April 25,1995) was perhaps best known as Fred Astaire’s dance partner, there is a famous saying “Ginger did everything that Fred did except backward and in high heels”.  In this post I will discuss a few of the spectacular dresses that Ginger wore in the ten films that she made with Fred between 1933 – 1949, any one of these dresses could be a wonderful inspiration for a bridal gown with a vintage touch!

It is important to note that during the Great Depression in the United States, movies were considered a luxury expense but also a welcome relief and escape from the daily financial problems of the general public.  The movies often depicted better times with plotlines that featured elaborate nightclub scenes with the actors all dressed in beautiful costumes.  So, expectations were always high for Ginger’s movie dresses and the costume department at RKO studios did not disappoint with wonderful designs featuring silk and satin fabrics with fur trim, feathers or beaded embellishments.  Women moviegoers, who could not afford new clothing, loved seeing the elegant evening dresses that Ginger wore in the movies.

Also during the 1930s, when many of the Fred & Ginger movies were made, the film industry had strict regulations (known as the Hays Code) which set the morality standards for movie production and as a result the guidelines directly influenced costume designs.  Ginger’s dresses usually required her to be demurely covered in the front but there were no limitations on the back of the dresses.  Sometimes her movie costumes would be rather low-cut in the back but still managed to give her a classic and elegant style.  It has been said that “Fred gave Ginger class and she gave him sex appeal”.  (Special Note: The idea of a dress design with a more modest front and a low back would be wonderful combination for a mother of the bride/groom, the front of the dress would be appropriate for ceremony photographs in a church while the back would look great for dancing at the reception)

Speaking of dancing, being a perfectionist when it came to choreography, Fred felt the most important thing was that the fabulous movie dresses worn by Ginger needed to allow a full range of motion required for the complex dance routines.  This was wonderfully achieved by the studio’s dress designers and when watching the films Ginger’s dresses seem to enhance the dance beautifully with a graceful movement.  (Photo shown below is from the 1936 movie “Swing Time”)

So, let’s take a look at some of the iconic movie dresses of Ginger Rogers –

“Flying Down to Rio” – 1933

Flying Down to Rio was the first movie that Fred and Ginger were in together; they were the supporting actors while Dolores Del Rio and Gene Raymond were considered the stars of the film.  For the “Carioca’ dance scene, that involves Fred and Ginger almost continuously touching their foreheads while performing the intricate dance steps, Ginger wore a satin dress with a ruffled hem and sleeves with a gored skirt.

“The Gay Divorcee” – 1934

After the success of the pairing Fred and Ginger in Flying Down to Rio, the film studio was quick to make another movie with the dancing duo.  In The Gay Divorcee gave Fred and Ginger top billing and “The Continental”, which was featured in the film, was the first song to win in the new Academy Award category for Best Original Song.

“The Continental” dance scene is rather long with elaborate movie sets and numerous extras.  Ginger wears an evening dress which is a lovely contrast of dark and light fabric.  The dress features a v-neckline with crisscross straps, dark fringe at the shoulders and trailing down to the low scoop back, and a light colored skirt blending into a darker colored hemline.

Meanwhile, on a personal note aside from filming movies, Ginger married her second husband actor Lew Ayres on June 23, 1934.  She wore a two piece dress with a long-sleeve button front jacket with a soft draped collar that perfectly matched a long skirt, both pieces were made with a lace overlay, Ginger also wore a wide brimmed hat.   (Because the only pictures I found were black and white I was unable to determine the color of her bridal ensemble).  Special note:  The three-tiered wedding cake was made by Hollywood caterers, the Samson Sisters, and was beautifully decorated with hearts and the intertwined initials of the bridal couple and featured a whimsical cake topper of a small doll figurine which was meant to look like Ginger.

“Roberta” – 1935

For the “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes” dance scene in Roberta, Ginger enters the nightclub wearing a long black satin coat with a slight train and a luxurious fur collar and cuffs. (Remember, this is the 1930s when wearing fur was the height of sophistication!)  Before starting the dance she removes the coat to reveal a sexy long black satin dress with thin straps that twist in the back, Ginger wear a large rhinestone broach pinned to the bodice of the dress.

 “Top Hat – 1935

Perhaps one of the most iconic dresses worn by Ginger was the feather dress that she wore in Top Hat for the “Cheek to Cheek” dance scene.  This famous dress, another Bernard Newman design, featured an abundance of ostrich feathers at the neckline and also on the lower portion of the satin dress. Since the film was originally shot in black & white, at first I could not determine the color but it has been reported that the dress was made in a wonderful shade of blue.  Special Note: For this dance scene Ginger wore her hair in an elaborate braided that beautifully framed her face, it would make a lovely bridal hairstyle that could be further enhanced with pearl or rhinestone hair pins.

Another beautiful movie dress worn by Ginger in the film Top Hat was also designed by Bernard Newman.  The “Piccolino” dress was a dazzling long white satin and chiffon evening dress accented with beaded sequin and featuring a gorged hemline, short upturned ruffled sleeves and a peplum waist.  Special Note: In 1984 Ginger was present when the “Piccolino” dress was donated to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History, unfortunately it is currently not of display at the museum.  

“Follow the Fleet” – 1936

For the “Let’s Face the Music and Dance” musical scene Ginger wore a pale blue beaded  sequin dress with a fur collar and two beaded tassels trim at the neckline, wide sleeves and a flared skirt.  It has been noted that the weight of the dress (reported to be about 25 pounds) caused some difficulties for both Ginger and Fred.  When performing the steps and turns required for dance choreography the heavy dress would cause Ginger to become a little off balance and the sleeves would literally slap Fred in the face!  Also, the back lighting used for the scene inadvertently shows the silhouette of Ginger’s trim legs! “Swing Time” – 1936

The dress Ginger wore for the musical number “Waltz in Swing Time” was a lovely pink organza dress with a button front bodice and sheer collar, multi-ruffled sleeves and flared skirt with a ruffled hemline.  Once again Ginger closely collaborated with Bernard Newman, the RKO costume designer.

The second dress worn by Ginger in the film was for the final dance scene which featured the song “Never Gonna Dance”.  Ginger wore a very sexy design featuring a bias cut dress with crisscross rhinestone trim across the bodice and the low back which perfectly showed off her trim figure.  The first photo shows the dress worn with the matching multi-paneled cape.

“Shall We Dance” – 1937

As Fred starts the final musical number of “Shall We Dance” he is desperately trying to find the real Ginger among the numerous women wearing Ginger masks and identical dresses.  The dress is very similar to the one Ginger wore in the film “Roberta” several years earlier, this version of a long satin dress has double straps and a rhinestone brooch pinned to the bodice, Ginger (and of course all the look-a-likes) is wearing a dark veil and long black gloves.

“Carefree” – 1938

For the whimsical musical number, “The Yam”, Ginger wears a dress featuring pleated sleeves and skirt with a contrasting color bodice accented with sparkling gems.  The dress moves beautifully as Ginger and Fred performed the fun dance scene that takes them from the dance floor and through several additional rooms in which they are followed by numerous couples along the way!

“The Story of Vernon and Irene Castle” – 1939

The Story of Vernon and Irene Castle movie told the story of real life couple who became famous for their wonderful ballroom dancing.  The dress that Ginger wore for the “The Last Waltz” musical number in the film was a romantic silk dress trimmed with metallic fabric on the bodice and fur on sleeves.

This would be the last film that Fred and Ginger would star in together for RKO studios.  Fred would go on to pursue a solo dancing career and Ginger would limit her acting to dramatic roles, in fact, Ginger won the Academy Award for best actress in the 1940 movie “Kitty Foyle”.

 “The Barkleys of Broadway” – 1949

Ten years later, Fred and Ginger would reunite for the 1949 MGM movie The Barleys of Broadway which was the story about a fictional dancing duo.  This movie would be the first and only film that Fred and Ginger would make in Technicolor; all their previous movies were made in black and white.  As a result, Ginger’s costumes would specifically reflect the addition of color in the choices of fabrics.

For “Swing Trot”, the musical number which is shown in the film’s opening credits, Ginger wears a slinky dress of gold lame with thin straps.

Any of these spectacular dresses worn by Ginger Rogers in the ten films that she made with Fred Astaire could be a wonderful inspiration for a bridal gown or a dress for a bridesmaid or mother of the bride/groom.

A British Royal Bride – Lady Diana Spencer

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This post will feature Lady Diana Spencer (later known as Princess of Wales) as part of the ongoing series highlighting British Royal Brides.  The Wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana took place on July 29, 1981 at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, England (for more detailed information about the wedding ceremony and reception, please click on the link).  In this post I will discuss the iconic wedding dress and accessories she wore as well as the bridal bouquet that she carried on her wedding day and her going-away outfit..

The Wedding Dress and Bridal Accessories

Diana’s wedding dress was created by relatively new designers, Elizabeth and David Emanuel, which had a studio in Mayfair.  They had been referred to Diana through an editor at Vogue magazine that was helping her to acquire an appropriate wardrobe as befitting her new royal status that would include a variety of public duties.  In fact, for the official formal engagement photos Diana wore an Emanuel pale pink chiffon blouse with a pink silk taffeta skirt, the look had a very feminine style. 

the Emanuel chiffon blouse worn for the formal engagement photos

Diana had also purchased a very different style of Emanuel dress prior to the wedding, it was a very revealing black silk strapless, full skirt gown that she wore to her first public event with Prince Charles after the official engagement announcement, it was viewed as just a little too sexy for a future member of the Royal family!

the Emanuel black silk gown

Diana’s wedding dress was made of ivory silk taffeta which featured a full voluminous skirt worn over a multi-layered tulle crinoline, a fitted bodice with full 3/4 length sleeves trimmed with antique Carrickmacross lace and hand-embroidered with more than 10,000 tiny mother-of-pearl sequins and pearls.  The massive 25 foot train, the longest to be worn by a British Royal bride, featured ivory silk taffeta and antique lace.  Unfortunately, the historic Glass Coach that would transport Diana and her father from Clarence House to the Cathedral had very little space to accommodate the size of the dress and train so as a result when she emerged from the carriage the dress appeared to be winkled but was quickly smoothed out before she would proceed down the aisle.

Lady Diana and her father, Charles, the Earl of Spencer

Details of Diana’s wedding dress

Another mishap that occurred on the wedding day was that Diana had spilled her perfume down the front of her dress!  Luckily she would use her large bridal bouquet to cover the spot but if you look closely at photos taken at the Cathedral during the wedding service you can see Diana is holding the gathered material of the dress.  (Special Note: In case you were wondering Diana wore Quelques Fleurs perfume by Houbigant, it was one of Diana’s favorites)

Diana with Prince Charles (notice she is clutching the front of her dress)

Diana’s wedding veil was made from 153 yards of silk tulle and was secured to the top of her head with the Spencer tiara.  The family heirloom features diamonds in a silver setting mounted in gold into a romantic design of floral shapes, stars and scrolls.  (Special Note: Diana’s maternal grandmother, Cynthia Hamilton wore a slightly different version of the tiara when she married Lord Albert (later 7th Earl of Spencer) in 1919.  Then, in 1937, the Garrard jewelers of London added more jewels to create the most current version of the tiara.  Interestingly, when Diana’s mother, Frances, married Lord John (later 8th Earl of Spencer) she did not wear the tiara.  The Spencer tiara has been worn for the weddings of Diana’s two oldest sisters, Jane in 1978 and Sarah in 1980, and then by Diana’s brother’s first wife in 1989.  Most recently, the Spencer tiara was worn by Lady Sarah’s youngest daughter, Celia, in 2018)       

the Spencer Tiara

Unseen under the voluminous wedding dress, Diana wore a pair of custom shoes made by the Royal cobbler, Clive Shilton.  The shoes were made of silk and lace accented with pearls and sequins to match the dress and featured suede soles for comfort.  Since the bride was almost the same height as her groom, she specifically asked that the shoes be made with a very low heel.  (Special Note: A very romantic element of Diana’s wedding shoes was unseen on the wedding day; the bottom of the shoes were hand painted with the initials of the bridal couple)

Diana;s wedding shoes

Close-up of the C and D, the initials of the bride and groom

Like many brides, Diana kept with the wedding tradition set by the Old English rhyme – something old would be the antique Carrickmacross lace used to trim her wedding dress, something new would be the ivory silk taffeta fabric made at the Lullington silk farm in Dorset, something borrowed would be the Spencer tiara, something blue would be a small blue bow sewn into the waist of the wedding dress.  For an extra measure of good luck, a tiny horseshoe shaped charm made in 18 carat gold and diamonds was also sewn into wedding dress.    

The Wedding Bouquet

Diana’s large wedding bouquet was created by Longmans Florist of London; it measured 42 inches in length and weighed almost 5 pounds.  The cascade style bouquet featured gardenias, golden Mountbatten roses (as a tribute to Prince Charles late uncle, Lord Louis Mountbatten), white odontolglossum orchids, lilies of the valley, freesias, veronica, trasdescantia and ivy.  Of course, as per British Royal wedding tradition, the bouquet included myrtle from Osborne.  (Special Note: Per the Queen’s request, two identical bouquets were made, the reason behind this practical idea came from a mishap that happened at her own wedding in 1947 when her bouquet was misplaced and could not be found, if you look at the formal photographs taken on the wedding day her bouquet is noticeably missing!)

Going Away Outfit

After the wedding breakfast, Diana changed from her wedding dress into her going away outfit.  It was a peach silk dress and matching short jacket with white silk organza collar and cuffs.  To complete her ensemble Diana wore a pearl choker and a peach feathered hat.    

Special Note

After the tragic death of Princess Diana in 1997, her wedding dress went on display as part of the “Diana: A Celebration” exhibit at Althorp, Diana’s childhood home.  Althorp is also the final resting place of the Princess of Wales and she is laid to rest on the island in the middle of the Oval Lake thereby eternally providing her with the peace and privacy that eluded her during her very public life.  From 1998 to 2013 the wedding dress, along with 150 items pertaining to Diana’s life, had been on display as part of the exhibition.  Per her will, many of her personal belongings including the wedding dress were to remain in the possession of her brother, Charles Spencer, to be kept until the youngest of her sons, Prince Harry, turned 30 years old.  Since 2014 the wedding dress has been returned to Prince William and Prince Harry and there are currently no plans for it to be exhibited in the future.

An American Bride – Meghan Markle

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In the ongoing series on British Royal Wedding I featured the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle that took place on May 19, 2018 at St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle (click on the link for more information) In this post I will discuss the beautiful bridal dress and bridal accessories which Meghan wore on her wedding day.

Meghan choose the British-born designer Clare Waight Keller from the Givenchy fashion house, she formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland and Chloe.  They started the design process only five months before the wedding date and the dress and veil were made in Paris, France where Meghan met with Keller several times for secret fittings.

The dress has been described as a timeless elegant modern design with a sleek silhouette made with only six seams.  The long dress featured a boat neckline, long sleeves and flowing train.  The material used was white double-bonded white silk with triple silk organza used for the dress underskirt.  For “something blue” Meghan had a piece of fabric from a blue dress that she had worn on her first date with Prince Harry sewn into the dress (what a great idea!)

Meghan’s white silk 16 feet long bridal veil took almost 500 hours to make and thoughtfully paid tribute to the coronation gown Queen Elizabeth II had worn in 1953.  Back then the future Queen had requested Norman Hartnell to incorporate the flowers of the commonwealth to be embroidered into the coronation dress, at the time the commonwealth consisted of only eight countries.  Since Prince Harry is a youth Ambassador for the Commonwealth, Meghan wanted to surprise her future husband by including the wildflowers of the 53 countries currently in the Commonwealth into her bridal veil.  Each flower was appliqued and embroidered onto the border of the veil giving it a beautiful dimension and texture.  Some of the flowers include the rose for England, flax for Northern Ireland, the thistle for Scotland, the daffodil for Wales, the golden wattles for Australia and the kowhai for New Zealand.  Meghan also wanted two additional flowers included in the design, the California poppy to represent the place in which she was born and the wintersweet which grows in the garden outside Nottingham Cottage at Kensington Palace, the home of Prince Harry and Meghan.

Imagine having the choice of any of the tiaras in the Royal collection for a bride’s “something borrowed”!  Well, Meghan had chosen the Queen Mary Bandeau Tiara which was personally loaned to her by Queen Elizabeth.  The story behind the tiara goes back several decades to when Princess Mary of Teck (later known as Queen Mary) married Prince George (the Duke of York and later known as King George V) in 1893.  She was given a beautiful brooch that featured a large brilliant diamond in the center surrounds by nine brilliant diamonds as a gift from the County of Lincoln.  Then in 1932 she had a diamond and platinum bandeau tiara specifically commissioned for the brooch to be used as the centerpiece, the brooch could still be removed to be worn separately.  The tiara has a flexible band of eleven sections featuring interlaced ovals and pave diamonds in addition to clusters of several large and small brilliant diamonds on either end that are intended to match the center brooch.  When Queen Mary died in 1953 the tiara was officially bequeathed to her grand-daughter Princess Elizabeth (who would be crowned Queen Elizabeth II later in the same year).  When Meghan wore the tiara for her wedding day the base of the tiara was wrapped in dark velvet to match her darker hair coloring.   

To complete her bridal look on her wedding day Meghan wore a set of diamond earrings set in 18ct white gold and made by the French jeweler Cartier.  She also wore a stunning Cartier bracelet that featured 100 diamonds set in 18ct white gold. 

In a romantic gesture Prince Harry personally hand-picked several of the flowers from the private garden at Kensington Palace to be included in Megan’s bridal bouquet.  The all white floral bouquet include scented sweet peas, lily of the valley, astibe, jasmine, astrantia and forget-me-nots which were the favorite flower of Princess Diana and it was the perfect way to remember and pay tribute to her on the wedding day.  Meghan’s floral bouquet was tied together by their wedding florist Philippa Craddock with raw silk ribbon which reflected the “just picked” informal style.

Also include in Meghan’s bridal bouquet was a sprig of myrtle which symbolizes hope and love.  This lovely Royal tradition dates back to the time of Queen Victoria when on the occasion her daughter’s wedding myrtle was added to Princess Victoria’s bouquet when she married the Crown Prince Frederick of Prussia in 1858.  The story behind the myrtle is that on a visit to Germany by Queen Victoria she had received a floral posy from Prince Albert’s grandmother.  Upon returning to England, the sprig of myrtle from the posy was planted in the garden of Osborne House located on the Isle of Wright and a plant from this original cutting still grows there today.

In another Royal tradition, after the wedding Meghan’s bridal bouquet was sent to London to be placed on the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior in Westminster Abbey.  This custom dates back to 1923 when Lady Elizabeth Bowes Lyon (later known as Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother) married Prince George, the Duke of York (later to become King George VI) It was said that Lady Elizabeth left her bouquet there as a sentimental tribute to her brother Fergus who had been killed in World War I.  King George and Queen Elizabeth were the parents of the current Queen Elizabeth and thus the great-grandparents of Prince Harry.