Helen Rose – An American Movie Costume Designer

To continue this blog’s ongoing series on fashion and costume designers, in this post I will discuss the career of Helen Rose who was an American costume designer at the Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer film studio during the 1940s to the 1960s.  She created costumes for some of the most glamorous film stars, such as Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.  In fact they love her designs so much that on their wedding days both ladies wore bridal gowns made by Helen Rose.   (Special Note: In keeping with the theme of An Elegant Bride blog, the classic Helen Rose movie costume designs detailed in this post would be a great inspiration for a classic wedding style for either a bride and/or bridesmaid dresses)

A brief history of the life and career of Helen Rose

Helen (Bromberg) Rose was born on February 2, 1904 in Chicago, Illinois; her parents were William Bromberg and Ray Bobbs.  Perhaps because her father was part owner of an art reproduction company and her mother was a seamstress, at a young age Helen showed an artistic talent for drawing and fashion design and she convinced her parents to enroll her in the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts.  She would be hired by the Lester Costume Company to create costumes for vaudeville shows and when her family moved in 1929 she went with them to Los Angeles, California.

Eventually Helen went to work for Fanchon and Marco which was a company that designed costumes for theatrical shows.  After that work experience she was quickly hired to design costumes for the Ice Follies, a touring ice show founded in 1936 which featured elaborate production numbers.      

In the early 1940s Helen worked briefly for 20th Century Fox designing movie costumes mainly for the studio’s musical productions.  Then, in 1943 she was hired by MGM where she would eventually be promoted to the chief designer, she worked at the studio for over forty years. She created costumes for over 200 films for some the most famous movie stars at MGM, including Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Deborah Kerr, Lana Turner, and Esther Williams.  Helen was nominated ten times for an Academy Award for Best Costume Design, she won twice for “The Bad and the Beautiful” in 1952 and “I’ll Cry Tomorrow” in 1955.

Helen Rose receiving her Oscar for “The Bad and the Beautiful”

Helen’s influence on the bridal industry was noted when she designed the movie wedding dress for Elizabeth Taylor in “Father of the Bride” (as well her real life 1950 wedding)  Helen also received international attention when she designed the bridal dress for Grace Kelly’s wedding in 1956. 

In 1958 Helen opened her own ready-to-wear line of clothing and she sold her designs to upscale department stores such as Bonwit Teller, Marchall Fields and Joseph Magnin. She also licensed her designs to be sold through Spadea and Advance patterns during the 1950s. 

Helen left the MGM in 1966, by that time studios were using store-bought clothing for their movies and long term contracts were no longer given to studio designers

On a personal note, Helen married Harry Rose on December 28, 1929 and had a daughter named Judy.  She died at the age of 81 in Palm Springs, California on November 9, 1985.

Movie costume designs of Helen Rose

During her forty years working for the studio Helen was especially known for creating lovely costumes made with chiffon which was known to be a very difficult fabric to work with but she liked it because it moved beautifully and would photograph well as it picked up the lights on the studio sets.

So, starting in chronological order I will focused on two very different actresses that Helen designed costumes for, the elegant Grace Kelly and the sexy Elizabeth Taylor. 

Helen created perhaps one of the most iconic wedding dresses of the 1950s for Elizabeth Taylor in the “Father of the Bride” film (1950).  The dress featured elaborate layers of satin fabric creating a full skirt which was tapered to a tiny waistline and a high neck finished with a rounded collar and bodice of beautiful lace. (Special Note: This original wedding dress style was made available to the public through the Alfred Angelo bridal store during the 1950s)  

By 1956 Helen had worked with Grace Kelly on many of the actress’ films for MGM, the 1956 film “High Society” would be one on Grace’s last films for the studio.  She had recently become engage to Prince Rainer and she would be leaving her acting career behing in the United States to start a new life as a Princess in Monaco.  As a funny coincidence, “High Society” was a film in which Grace played a spolied rich girl who was about to be married. Shown in the photo below is one of the dresses designed by Helen and it was a light gray and pink evening chiffon evening gown beautifully embellished with floral embroidery and beading cascading from the shoulder to the hem.      

The second dress worn by Grace that Helen designed for the film was for the wedding scene, the dress was made of silk organza worn over a white underdress.  It featured a full skirt with bellowing sheer sleeves and a pink ribbon tied at the waist and accented with fabric florals that matched the embroidered flowers on the bodice and skirt.  To complete the look, Grace wore a wide brimmed white hat covered with layers of fabric and tulle and a pair of white wrist length gloves. 

Just like Grace, throughout Helen’s years at MGM she worked with Elizabeth Taylor on numerous movies.  In the beginning she created modest dresses for the young ingénue who was at the start of her longer film career but later when Elizabeth began taking on more mature roles in her films her style changed dramatically. 

The movie costume created by Helen for Elizabeth Taylor for “Cat on a Hot Tin” (1958) was a sexy white chiffon dress with a plunging neckline shown in the photo below.  (Special Note: This dress would become a best seller for the Helen Rose clothing line which she started in 1958.  I’m sure many husbands were happy that their wives could dress just like the sultry Elizabeth Taylor!)

Famous wedding dresses designed by Helen Rose

Helen Rose set the bridal trends for generations to come with her movie costume designs for Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly as well as the bridal gown designs for their real life weddings in the 1950s. 

Elizabeth Taylor had finished filming the “Father of the Bride” but just before the movie was officially released she married Conrad “Nicky” Hilton on May 6, 1950 in Beverly Hills, California.  As a wedding gift to the bride MGM had Helen Rose make the bridal gown, it took fifteen seamstresses and embroiders three months to complete at the cost of $1,5000.

The bridal gown used 25 yards of ivory silk satin and featured a full skirt with an illusion bodice embellished with beads and pearls.  The veil was made of 10 yards of silk net and was attached to a Juliet cap covered in pearls.  (Special Note: The dress sold for $188,000 at a Christie’s auction in 2013)

Unfortunately the couple divorce after a year and it would be the first of Elizabeth’s 8 weddings over the next 40 years, she had 7 different husbands but she married Richard Burton twice. 

After her short marriage to Hilton, Elizabeth married Michael Wilding on February 21, 1952 in London, England.  (Special Note: Elizabeth actually held dual citizenship because she was born in London and moved with her parents to California in 1939, both her parents were originally from Kansas and had lived in England for 10 years)

Helen Rose also designed Elizabeth’s wedding dress for her second wedding, it was a jacket with a white collar and cuffs and three-quarter sleeves worn with a matching flared skirt. 

Helen Rose designed the movie costumes worn by Grace Kelly for the four MGM films she starred in and they had developed a great friendship.  When Grace became engaged to Prince Rainer of Monaco she entrusted Helen to create not one but two wedding dresses!  She designed one for the civil ceremony that took place on April 18, 1956 in the Throne Room at the Prince’s Palace and one for the religious ceremony which took place the next day at the Saint Nicholas Cathedral in Monaco.  (Special Note: Both wedding dresses were a special gift to the bride from the MGM Studio)

Grace’s civil ceremony wedding dress was made with a pale pink taffeta with a ivory French Alencon lace overlay which was further embellished with pink embroidery and featured a round collar jacket and a full skirt, to complete her ensemble Grace wore a Juliet cap and gloves.       

For the religious ceremony, which took place on April 19, 1956, Helen Rose created a beautiful wedding dress made with 25 yards of vintage Brussels rose point lace and silk faille taffeta that featured a fitted bodice, high neckline, long sleeves and a full skirt.  The chapel length veil was made of tulle and attached to a Juliet cap embellished with pearls and fabric orange blossoms.  (Special Note:  The iconic wedding dress and accessories were donated by Grace Kelly to the Philadelphia Museum of Art) 

For more information on the wedding of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainer of Monaco, please click on the link.

First Ladies Inauguration Ball Gowns

One of the most popular exhibits in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History located in Washington D.C. is the First Ladies Inauguration Ball Gown exhibit.  (Now my husband would argue this point by saying that any of the exhibits at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum are much more exciting!)  In this post I will discuss several of the First Ladies Inauguration Ball Gowns concentrating on the last 60 years with twelve First Ladies and starting in 1961 with Mrs. Jaqueline Kennedy to the most recent in 2021 with Mrs. Jill Biden.  Fashion Note: Any of these First Ladies Inauguration Ball gowns would be a great inspiration for a mother of the bride/groom dress for a formal evening wedding. 

But first, here is some information of how and when the collection of the First Ladies Inauguration Ball Gowns was started.  The collection started in 1912 when the Smithsonian began to accumulate dresses donated from past the First Ladies.   As the collection grew throughout the years, it has been determined that every administration since President Washington is represented, although some of the dresses were not specifically worn for an Inauguration.

Today it has become customary for a former First Lady to donate her Inauguration Ball Gown, occasionally with accessories such as shoes or a purse, to the Smithsonian after the end of a President’s term in office.   In case you were wondering, if a President serves multiple terms, the First Lady will customarily donate the Inauguration Ball gown from the first term and a dress worn for a subsequent term usually goes to her husband’s Presidential library.   

The young and fashionable Jacqueline Kennedy, wife of President John Kennedy (1961 to 1963, wore a custom designed gown by Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf for her husband’s 1961 Inauguration Ball.  The strapless gown was made of peau d’ange fabric embellished with crystals and embroidered with silver thread with a bodice overlay made of silk chiffon.

1961 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Jacqueline Kennedy

For the 1965 Inauguration Ball of President Lyndon Johnson (1963 to 1969) his wife, Lady Bird Johnson, wore a simple yellow silk satin gown designed by John Moore.  The dress had cap sleeve and the matching long coat had sable trimmed sleeves.

1965 Inauguration Ball gown and matching coat worn by Lady Bird Johnson

Pat Nixon, wife of President Richard Nixon (1969 to 1974), wore a gown designed by Karen Berin for her husband’s 1969 Inauguration Ball. The gown was made of yellow mimosa silk satin with gold and silver embroidery and embellished with Austrian crystal.

1969 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Pat Nixon

The next gown in the First Ladies collection was worn for a White House State Dinner by Betty Ford, her husband was President Gerald Ford (1974-1977).  Ford became President after the resignation of Nixon and served out the term but did not win the election in 1976. Special Note: This is an example of a First Ladies dress that was not worn for an Inauguration Ball.  

The pale green sequined chiffon gown embroidered in a chrysanthemum pattern was designed by Frankie Welch.  Mrs. Ford wore the dress twice for a State Dinner, once in 1975 State Dinner for the Shah of Iran and again in 1976 for the State Dinner for King Juan Carlos of Spain.     

1969 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Pat Nixon

For the 1977 Inauguration Ball for President Jimmy Carter (1977-1981) his wife, Rosalynn Carter, wore a gown designed by Mary Matise which she had previously worn for the 1971 Gubernatorial Ball when her husband was elected as the Governor of Georgia.  The blue chiffon gown was trimmed with gold embroidery and worn with a matching sleeveless coat.   

1977 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Rosalynn Carter

Four years later, for the1981 Inauguration Ball of President Ronald Reagan (1981-1989) his wife Nancy Reagan wore a gown designed by James Galanos.  The glamourous First Lady wore a white one shouldered gown of silk satin heavily beaded gown.  Mrs. Reagan had worked with Galanos previously and had worn a different one shouldered gown for the Gubernatorial Ball in 1967 when husband was elected Governor of California.  Fashion Note: I believe this would be the first time that a First Lady had worn a one shouldered gown for an Inaugural Ball.         

1981 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Nancy Reagan

For the 1989 Inauguration Ball of President George H.W. Bush (1989 to 1993) his wife, Barbara Bush, wore a gown designed by Arnold Scaasi.  The long sleeve gown was made of royal blue velvet and silk satin and featured an asymmetrical skirt; of course she wore the gown with her iconic pearl necklace.   

1989 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Barbara Bush

For the 1993 Inauguration Ball of President Bill Clinton (1993 to 2001) his wife, Hillary Rodham Clinton, wore a gown designed by Sarah Phillips and made by Barbara Matera Ltd. who was a New York theatrical costume maker.  The gown was made of a lovely violet beaded lace gown with an iridescent blue velvet silk mousseline overskirt. 

1993 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Hillary Rodham Clinton

Eight years later, for the 2001 Inauguration Ball of President George W. Bush (2001-2009) his wife Laura Bush wore a gown designed by Michael Faircloth.  The gown was made in a red crystal embroidered Chantilly lace over silk georgette. 

2001 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Laura Bush

For the 2009 Inauguration Ball of President Barack Obama (2009 to 2017) his wife, Michelle Obama, wore a gown designed by Jason Wu.  The elegant one shouldered white silk chiffon gown is embellished with organza flowers with Swarovski crystal centers.   

2009 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Michelle Obama

For the 2017 Inauguration Ball of President Donald Trump (2017 to 2021) his wife, Melania Trump, wore a gown designed by Herve Pierre. The off the shoulder ivory   crepe gown features a slit skirt, a ruffled trim from the neckline to the hem and a thin red ribbon at the waist. 

2017 Inauguration Ball gown worn by Melania Trump

The next dress may look like an unusual choice, but due to Covid-19 restrictions the Inauguration of President Joe Biden (2021 to present) was very different than any previous administrations.  The swearing-in ceremony had limited capacity and there was no Inauguration Ball but a virtual concert was broadcast in the evening. 

For these reasons First Lady Jill Biden did not wear a formal gown but instead worn a coat and dress ensemble by designer Gabriela Hearst. The knee length dress was made of silk wool with an organza neckline and sleeves which featured floral embroidery that incorporated the flowers from every state and territory of the United States (what a great idea!)  Mrs Biden thoughtfully had the state flower of Delaware embroidered on the bodice positioned on the left side over her heart. 

The matching coat was made of a white cashmere that also had floral embroidery at the hem.  In another sentimental gesture inside the coat Mrs. Biden has a Benjamin Franklin quote embroidered into the lining to honor her career as a college professor which says, “Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn”.

2021 dress and matching coat worn by Jill Biden
on the evening of her husband’s Inauguration

So, as previously mentioned, any of the gowns worn by the First Ladies shown above would be a wonderful inspiration for a dress for a mother of the bride/groom. 

Repurposed Wedding Dress

One of the most important personal decisions that a bride will make when planning her special day will be the selection of her wedding dress.  After the wedding some brides will want to have their dress preserved in a special acid-free box lined with tissue to prevent it from discoloration, shown below is an example.    

Other brides will want to display their wedding dress in a shadowbox as a decorative piece for the couple’s home, the example in the photo below shows a wedding dress encased in a large frame and displayed with the bridal bouquet.

Sometimes, a more practical and sentimental bride might want to repurpose their wedding dress and below are some ideas and suggestions.

Wedding dress repurposed into heirloom clothing or jewlery

The most obvious choice would be to preserve a bride’s wedding dress and pass it onto their future daughter as a cherished heirloom, in a similar way some brides have chosen to wear their mother or grandmother’s wedding dress.  This is the most practical way of repurposing because the dress is usually preserved as a whole garment with only a few alterations needed to fit the new bride. 

Special Note:  For a bride, husband or other family member – before repurposing a bride’s wedding dress, especially for a gift item in which the dress would be cut-up into material, ALWAYS check with the bride BEFORE!!  

Since there are usually yards of beautiful fabric, trim and lace used to create a wedding dress and veil, one idea is to repurpose the material into a baptismal or christening gown for the couple’s future children, as shown in the photo below.  In this manner the garment is not gender specific and can continue to be used for any additional children and becomes a sentimental family heirloom.

Another idea would be to repurpose the wedding dress into a first communion dress
for the couple’s future daughter, an example is shown in the photo below. 

The next two ideas would be to repurpose the wedding dress into items of personal clothing that can be worn by the bride in the future, perhaps for special events such as an anniversary dinner, a baptism or christening ceremony or a family wedding. 

the first item is purse or clutch made from the wedding dress material

the second item is a scarf made from a bridal veil

The next idea is not an item of clothing but a sentimental item of jewelry that can be worn after the wedding as a reminder of a bride’s special day.  A pendant necklace or locket can hold a small piece of material from a wedding dress as shown in the photo below.  

Home decorations or other items

Here are two ideas for home decorative items that would have a direct connection to the wedding day.  The first item would be a great idea for the repurpose of a wedding dress isfor a wedding photo using the material for a frame mat, as shown below.

The second idea would be use the material from a wedding dress
to cover a wedding photo album, as shown below. 

Another great idea for repurposing a wedding dress would be for a home decoration and the material could be used to cover a lamp shade, as shown in the photo below. This could be used in the couple’s bedroom or perhaps a baby nursery.

The next idea would be a very sentimental item for a first baby and the wedding dress material could be to used as a covering for a baby bassinet, as shown in the photo below.

Toys or Doll items

Any of the items listed in this section would make a wonderful gift idea for a child.  The first would be to use the material from a wedding dress to create a teddy bear; it would make an especially sentimental gift for a child’s first birthday.

The next two ideas would be to create clothing to dress a doll from a wedding dress material, shown below are examples for a Barbie doll and an American Girl doll.

Holiday decorations

The next ideas for repurposing a wedding dress would be to create holiday decorations, any of the items shown below would be great for a couple’s first Christmas. 

an angel tree topper made from a repurposed wedding dress

a Christmas tree skirt made from a repurposed wedding dress

a Christmas stocking made from material from a repurposed wedding dress

shown below is an example of Christmas ornament
using material from a repurposed wedding dress

Movie costumes – Emma 2020

In honor of the beloved English author Jane Austen’s birthday I would like to discuss the movie costumes of the most recent film adaption of Emma which was released earlier this year.  Although the film’s Regency period costumes may appear to be dated in the historic past, any of these dresses could be an inspiration for a modern wedding.  But before we look at those costumes, let me give you a brief biography of Jane Austen and some information about the 2020 film, Emma.  

Jane Austen (born December 16, 1775 and died July 18, 1817) wrote a total of six novels.  Her first book, Sense and Sensibility was published in 1811, followed by Pride and Prejudice in 1813, Mansfield Park in 1814 and Emma in 1816.  Two additional books were published posthumously in 1818, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.  Austen had started a third book, Sanditon, but it was not finished before her death.

Austen’s books were based on the society in which she lived and she wrote with a touch of humor and drama about her female characters as they find romance, love and occasional heartbreak during the Regency period in England.  Originally the first four books were published anonymously which brought Austen a degree of moderate success that afforded her some financial independence, keep in mind that female authors were rare at this time and in general women socially and financially relied on their husbands.  In 1833, several years after her death, the novels were republished as a set with illustrations by Ferdinand Pickering.  The novels continued to gain commercial success throughout years and have rarely gone out of print. 

Now, let’s briefly discuss the 2020 film adaption of Austen’s fourth book, Emma, which features Anya Taylor-Joy in the starring role of Emma Woodhouse with costars Johnny Flynn as George Knightley, Mia Goth as Harriet Smith and Bill Nighy as Mr. Woodhouse.   The film, directed by Autumn de Wilde, received good reviews and went on to gain two Academy Awards nominations for Best Costume Design and Best Make-up and Hair Styling.  The plot of the Regency period comedy-drama tells the story of Emma who is living with her father in the country; she is a wealthy and elegant young lady who can’t seem to stop herself from meddling in the lives of her neighbors and especially attempting to make a love match for her friend Harriet.  Meanwhile she is unaware that her childhood friend, Mr. Knightley, is in love with her. 

Next, I will discuss the costumes from the 2020 Emma film which were designed by Alexandra Bryne.  Before I start, I would just like to preference that I am NOT an expert on Regency fashions but I will do my best when describing the Emma movie costumes.

Regency fashion for women was based on a style known as the Empire silhouette; the name most probably came from Empress Josephine who was Napoleon Bonaparte’s first wife.  This term generally refers to a dress that is fitted across the bodice and then just below the bust line falls loosely into a gathered long skirt.

A Regency lady would wear various styles of dresses throughout the day; such as a morning dress worn at home, a dress for visiting neighbors or shopping in town, a dress worn for traveling or a riding habit and finally a dinner dress worn in the evening or perhaps a ball gown for a special occasion.  In the film, due to her father’s wealth and status, Emma wardrobe has more fashionable dresses or accessories made in higher-quality fabrics especially when compared to her friend Harriet’s dresses.

Basic white cotton or muslin dress

The main item of a Regency lady’s wardrobe was often made in a white cotton or muslin fabric sometimes embellished with white embroidery or other trimmings.  The simplicity of the white dress allowed versatility and could be accessorized with a chemisette (an undergarment made of cotton or lace to be worn beneath an open-necked dress) or a canezou (a short overgrament usually made of cotton or lace).  To add color to the simple white dress an overbodice, sometime made of silk or velvet, or a colored slip can be worn underneath to create a soft muted tone.  Shown below are several examples of these types of accessories.

an example of the white dress worn with a lace chemisette

an example of an overbodice in pink velvet

an overbodice with beautiful cap sleeves and trim

Historical note:  In the three photos shown above the character of Emma is wearing a topaz cross, in fact Jane Austen owned a similar piece of jewelry which she received as a gift from her brother.

Evening dress or ballgown

A Regency lady, especially one that is as socially prominent as Emma, would have a few evening dresses or ballgowns to wear on special occasions.  Usually these types of dresses would be made of more luxurious fabrics, such as silk or satin often in richer colors that the white or pastel day dresses.  Frequently worn over a white underdress would be sheer overdress made of silk organza or netting with trim and embellishments such as embroidery, beadwork or fabric flowers. 

The first example of an evening dress worn by the character of Emma during the dinner scene at Christmas and it is a beautiful ivory silk organza worn over an ivory satin underdress and the overlay that features silver leaves with an addition layer with silver stars, as shown in the photos below.

Fashion Note: This dress would be a lovely inspiration for a bridal dress for a candlelight evening ceremony and the silver embellishments would shine beautifully. 

The second evening dress worn by Emma in the film is actually a close copy of an antique dress now in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England.  In the photo from the film shown below, the dress is accessorized with long white gloves and a black and white striped shawl.

shown in the photos below from the Victoria and Albert Museum
is the original red silk net evening dress worn over a simple white underdress

the bodice, sleeves and hem are embellished with an embroidered design
of rosebud garlands in pink, red and green chenille

Emma’s wedding dress

At the end of the film, in one of the final scenes, Emma is married to her Mr. Knightley.  In the photos from the film shown below, Emma and her father are ready to walk down the aisle in the small village church.  She is wearing a taupe silk under dress with an overdress of silk organza, the bodice crosses in the front with lace trim at the neckline and puffed sleeves.  

Fashion Note:  Keep in mind that a white wedding dress was not popularized in England until the Victorian period after Queen Victoria wore one when she married Prince Albert.  A lady of Emma’s social status during the Regency period would probably have a new dress custom made for her wedding while a bride of the lower working class would just wear her “best dress” on her wedding day.   

shown below is another photo of Emma wearing a very tall stovepipe hat
with an attached embroidered bridal veil

Finally, before closing out this post, I need to mention perhaps one of my favorite clothing items of this version of the film Emma.  It would be the pink spencer worn by the character of Emma several times during the film, shown below is the scene when she is in the village with Frank Churchill (played by Callum Turner).  The film costume is actually a close copy of a circa 1817 antique jacket now in the Chertsey Museum located southwest of London.     

the pink spencer in the film features beautiful cording and sleeve details,
as shown in the close-up photos below

shown in the photo below from the Chertsey Museum
is the circa 1817 pink spencer which has a much more detailed collar
 

As previously mentioned, although the film’s Regency period costumes may appear to be dated in the historic past, any of these dresses could be an inspiration for a modern wedding. 

Movie Costumes – Breakfast at Tiffany’s

The iconic movie costumes of the 1961 Breakfast at Tiffany’s film worn by Audrey Hepburn as the character Holly Golightly have been an inspiration for decades making the little black dress a requirement for any fashionable women to add to her wardrobe.  In fact any of the dresses from the film would be lovely for a wedding dress (in white of course!) and also for a rehearsal or bridal shower dress.  But before discussing the movie costumes, here is some information about the film.

The Breakfast at Tiffany film is based on a 1958 novella written by Truman Capote, he had originally wanted Marilyn Monroe to play the main character and was unhappy when Audrey Hepburn was cast in the role.  Paramount Pictures acquired the movie rights and the romantic comedy was directed by Blake Edwards and was released theatrically on October 5, 1961.  The film was an immediate critical and commercial success and won the Academy Award for Best Original Song “Moon River” by Henry Mancini and lyricist Johnny Mercer. 

Breakfast at Tiffany’s is the story of a young woman, Holly Golightly (played by Audrey Hepburn), living in New York City who meets a young man, Paul Varjak (played by George Peppard), when he moves into her apartment building. She is working as an expensive escort who is searching for a rich, older man to marry and he is an aspiring writer who is involved with an older wealthy woman.  The movie also included Patricia Neal, Buddy Ebsen, Martin Balsam and Mickey Rooney in supporting roles. 

The iconic opening scene of the movie was filmed on location in New York City at the flagship store of Tiffany & Co located on Fifth Avenue.  Our first glimpse of Hepburn as Holly shows her emerging from a taxi still dressed in her evening clothes from the night before.  As she enjoys her breakfast of take away coffee and a pastry she stands in front of the large Tiffany’s store windows looking at the beautiful jewelry displays, hence the name of the movie!

Now, let’s discuss the costumes of Breakfast at Tiffany’s …

The Givenchy black evening gown

In that first scene of the movie, Audrey Hepburn’s character wears a timeless black Italian satin sheath evening gown by French designer Hubert de Givenchy; he was a close personal friend that she had collaborated with on previous movie costumes.  Although the gown was very simplistic in design, the interesting back features an unusual cut-out décolleté which is accented by a fabulous multi-strand pearl necklace with a large rhinestone broach attached in the front (more on the necklace later).  To complete the fashion ensemble, Hepburn’s long dark hair is styled in an elegant high chignon with a rhinestone tiara and she wears a pair of black satin elbow length gloves and “Manhattan” tortoiseshell sunglasses by designer Oliver Goldsmith (this classic style of sunglasses is still available to purchase over sixty years later!)     

The pearl necklace worn by Hepburn in the opening scene was made by Roger Scemama, a French jewelry designer who frequently collaborated with the haute-couture design houses including Givenchy.  However, Hepburn wore a different necklace for the Breakfast at Tiffany’s movie publicity photographs.  The Ribbon Rosette necklace designed by Jean Schlumberger, as shown in the photos below, features the famous Tiffany Diamond which was acquired by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1878 for $18,000.  The 128.54 carat diamond is cut into an 82 facet cushion-shape and measures an inch wide by seven-eighths of an inch from top to bottom. 

MOVIE TRIVIA:  Tiffany’s specially opened on Sunday to film the scene in which Holly takes Paul to visit the famous jewelry store.  As they walk through the store looking at the jewelry cases they stop to look at the Ribbon Rosette necklace with the Tiffany Yellow Diamond and, to paraphrase Holly, she says the necklace is lovely but she is too young to wear diamonds!

The Givenchy “little black dress”

Hepburn wears another Givenchy dress during the film; the black sheath sleeveless dress is made of cloque silk that flares out at the knees.  In fact the dress is worn for several different scenes in the film.  FASHION NOTE:  This is a perfect example how the versatile little black dress can be used in multiple ways for either daytime or evening wear simply by changing the accessories and this is why it has become a staple for any fashionable women’s wardrobe. 

In the first look Hepburn’s character is wearing the black dress during the scene on the first day she meets Peppard’s character and again when they go to Sing Sing Prison to meet with mobster Sally Tomato.  Both times she wears the dress with a large brimmed black hat known as the Chapeu du Matin with an equally large scarf attached, as shown below in a screenshot from the film and in a publicity photo.

In the second look Hepburn is wearing the black dress during the party scene with a large multi-strand necklace, as shown in the photos below.  The necklace is made of glass beads, pearls and black enamel chains was most likely created by the costume design department at Paramount under the supervision of Edith Head.

In the third look Hepburn wears the dress during the scene in which she sees her ex-husband and she is wearing it this time with an usual black pill box hat trimmed with white feathers, as shown below in a publicity photo.

The Givenchy pink dress

The final dress we will discuss is the Givenchy pink dress which Hepburn is wearing when her character is returning home from a night on the town and she receives some very devastating news.  The fabric of the bright pink dress is covered with fan-shaped rhinestones and a wide pink ribbon belt is tied at the waist, she is carrying the matching pink collarless coat with three-quarter sleeves and completes the look with a pink rhinestone tiara worn in her upswept hair, as shown in the photo below.

So, in conclusion, any of the costumes from the Breakfast at Tiffany’s film could be a great inspiration for a wedding dress (in white of course!) and also for a rehearsal or bridal shower dress. Shown below are two examples of “vintage” sewing patterns that could be used to create a custom Breakfast at Tiffany’s style .

Charles Worth and the House of Worth

Charles Worth (born: October 13, 1825 died: March 10, 1895) was a British born fashion designer based in Paris, France.  He was the founder of the House of Worth that designed dresses for wealthy clients like Alice and Ava Vanderbilt, created stage costumes for actresses such as Sarah Bernhardt and Jenny Lind and royal clients like Queen Victoria, Czarina Maria Feodorovna of Russia and his most important client the Empress Eugenie of France.

Charles Frederick Worth was born in the small town of Bourne in Lincolnshire, England.  His parents were William Worth and Ann Quincey, his father was a solicitor and in 1836 he abandoned the family leaving them penniless and without any means of financial support.  So, at the age of 11, Worth was sent to work in a printer’s shop. Then after a year, the young Worth went to London to work for several different textile manufacturers that supplied material for the local seamstresses and this is how he became interested in dress manufacturing.  Worth learned about the different types of fabrics and which worked best for a particular dress design and also the intricate structure of a dress and the sewing process required to make it.  Worth would sometimes go to the National Gallery in London to study the classic portraits and the clothing of the people in the paintings; this would be the inspiration for his future dress designs.

In 1845, Worth moved to Paris, France to work for a company called Gagelin and Opigez that provided material for the royal court dressmakers.  Worth soon became the lead salesman and later opened a small dressmaking department within the company.  In 1851, Worth married Marie Vernet and they had two sons, Gaston born in 1853 and Jean Philippe born in 1856.  Marie wore many dresses made by Worth and customers always inquired as to “who made your dress” and soon Worth decided to branch out with his own dressmaking company.  In 1858, Worth began a partnership with Otto Bobergh and they opened their store at 7 rue de la Paix in the fashion district of Paris.  Worth became one of the first men in the fashion industry to have his own store that designed and manufactured women’s dresses exclusively.  Worth’s designs were produced with the most beautiful and luxurious fabrics accented with beading or embroidery and he custom fit each dress to the client’s specific body requirements.

To promote his business Worth developed new and innovated ways to market his fashions to his wealthy clients.  The main showroom had a wall of mirrors with mannequins placed in front to display the various dresses of the collection; female employees were standing by if the client requested the dress to be modeled.  In another room the client would have the opportunity to try on the dress before making a decision to buy and then there was a room in which the client could select the fabric and accents to use for the dress.  Worth became the first fashion designer to sew labels and soon women throughout Paris were eager to have a custom made “Worth dress”.

Worth’s fashions were targeted for the wealthy women of Paris but soon he was custom designing dresses for one of the most important women in France … she was Empress Eugenie, the wife of Emperor Napoleon III.  The commission kept Worth very busy because the Empress’ royal duties required her to change her wardrobe several times during the day for various events.  The Empress needed numerous dresses for both day and evening wear as well more elaborate ball gowns for special occasions and Worth designed and made them all.  (An example of the quantity of dresses Worth designed for his royal client is that for the Empress’ short trip to Egypt for the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 Worth created 250 dresses)

By 1862, Paris fashion magazines started commenting on everything the Empress wore and that Worth designed from the unique blue color of her dress (Empress blue) to the shorter dress hemline that exposed her beautiful shoes to her startling choice to omit wearing a shawl or cloak in public (unheard of at the time for a proper lady to do) because she didn’t want to hide her elegant Worth dress.  Eventually, Worth and the Empress collaborated on a new dress design that would eliminate the need for crinoline (a stiff material sometimes made of horsehair used in a petticoat to add fullness to a skirt) which was something that they both greatly disliked.  The dress design was known as the fourreau, which was straight and narrow in the front to daringly show the shape of a women’s body with extra material in the back that formed a bustle, it proved to be an instant success.  (Shown below are photos of the front and back of a beautiful Worth fourreau dress)

Worth’s business continued to grow steadily and eventually Worth’s connection with Empress Eugenie led commissions to design dresses for many other women of the royal courts of Europe.  Worth designed dresses for Queen Victoria of England, Czarina Maria Feodorovna of Russia and Empress Elisabeth of Austria.  The beautiful Elisabeth was wife of Franz Joseph of Austria and she was known for her slim figure, long brunette hair and exquisite taste in fashion.  She was already the Empress of Austria when the royal couple was officially crowned King and Queen of Hungary in June 1867.  (Shown below is the Worth dress she wore for the coronation.  Also shown below is another dress created by Worth, it is a lovely pink tulle ball gown the Empress Elisabeth wore with sparkling star pins in her long hair for a famous Winterhalter portrait)

Unfortunately, Worth’s company closed for the duration of the Franco-Prussian War (July 19,1870 – May 10,1871).  The brief war resulted in the collapse of the Second Empire, Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie were exiled from the country.  (While the Empress remained in exile, Worth would send her a large bouquet of violets tied together with a mauve ribbon embroidered with his name in gold thread)  Worth had lost his best client and had enjoyed his collaborations with the Empress throughout the previous years but now with the royal court gone he did not take any new commissions since many of his wealthy clients had left Paris when the war started.

After the war, Worth decided to reopen his company but without his previous partner Bobergh.  Worth was now working with his two sons, Gaston and Jean Phillippe, and he named the new company the House of Worth.  To promote his new business Worth put on fashion shows to advertise his twice annual collections and he also started supplying “ready-made” dresses to department stores, such as Le Printemps and La Samaritaine in Paris and the famous Harrods in London, England.  Buyers would come each year to view the latest dress designs and then place an order for the department stores.  English women were now able to purchase French style fashions at a reasonable price.

Meanwhile, word about his wonderful dresses quickly spread overseas to the United States.  Wealthy Americans that travelled to Paris would order an entire wardrobe made by Worth.  It would include morning dresses, afternoon tea dresses, elaborate evening dresses and ball gowns as well as undergarments and nightgowns.  The House of Worth also custom designed costumes for Sarah Bernhardt and Jenny Lind to wear for their stage performances.

The House of Worth began designing custom dresses for rich Americans women such as Alice Vanderbilt, the wife of Cornelius Vanderbilt.  One dress of special note was designed for the famous Vanderbilt Costume Ball of 1883, hosted by William and Ava Vanderbilt.  It was a very unique and perhaps one the most famous dresses of New York high society and it was made for Alice Vanderbilt, the sister-in-law of the host.  It was the “Electric Light” dress which was a stunning costume made of golden satin with a dark blue velvet underskirt and a skirt that formed a bustle in the back of the dress.  The entire dress was accented with golden thread embroidery and gold beading used to create lightning bolts and starburst shapes.  The dress was also embellished at the shoulders with gold metallic tinsel and beaded tassels with golden fringe at the neckline and golden tulle attached at the shoulders that flowed down the back of the dress.  The dress cleverly featured hidden batteries so that Alice would be able to switch on to light up the dress like an electric light bulb, which was a recent invention of Thomas Edison.  (Shown in the photo below, which was taken at the ball, Alice also holds a torch in her hand that was battery operated)  Special Note: If you are interested in additional information about the Vanderbilt Ball that “changed New York society”, please click on the link.

  

In the years since the House of Worth opened, Worth’s sons began to take more control over the daily business involved with the company; such as management, finance and design decisions, leaving Worth with some free time at home.  He had a house in the Champs-Elysees and a villa near Bois Boulogne which had a garden and a stable of horses, it is said that some of the statues and stones which were used in the garden came from the Tuileries Palace which was former home of the Empress Eugenie.  In his final years, Worth’s health began to deteriorate with a variety of medical problems, most notably severe migraines.  Sadly, Charles Worth died in 1895 from pneumonia, he was 69 years old.  His wife, Marie died three years later.

By the time of Worth’s death, Paris was becoming the center of “haute couture”, which is defined as the custom designing and the making of high-quality and expensive clothes by a prestigious fashion house.  Worth sons, Gaston and Jean-Philippe, continued to run the family business.  During the turn of the century, the House of Worth made two dresses of special note for Mary Curzon, the wife of George Curzon the Lord of Kedleston and later Viceroy of India.  The first dress was made in 1903 and is called the Oak Leaf dress and shows remarkable design and beautiful detailing.  The silk satin dress features over 400 oak leaves created individually with an outline of satin cord to create the shape of each leaf and then filled with chenille thread, the darker leaves were created by cutting the fabric in the shape of the leaf and then putting silk netting attached to the back. (The photos below show the entire dress and the old leaf detailing)

The second dress was commissioned for the Delhi Durbar in 1903 and is called the Peacock dress.  The Durbar was held in celebration of the coronation of King Edward VII.  The detailed gold fabric was made entirely in India to the specifications of the House of Worth and features a pattern of overlapping peacock feathers made of gold beading attached with gold thread.  An unusual element of the dress was the item used to create the eye of each individual peacock feather; it is the iridescent green wing of the scarab beetle.  When the elaborate beadwork was finished the fabric was sent to Paris and the completed dress also featured white fabric roses at the hemline and an intricate beaded bodice; the completed dress weighted over 10 pounds.  (Special Note: The Peacock dress is now over 100 years old, a little tarnished but still spectacular!  The dress is currently on display at the Curzon home, Kedleston Hall, located in Derby, England) 

Wedding of Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mozzi

In this post I will discuss the dress worn by Princess Beatrice on her wedding day.  Sometimes a bride for sentimental reasons will wear a wedding dress from a beloved relative, maybe the bride’s mother or in the case of Princess Beatrice a dress which was previously worn by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II.

Princess Beatrice is the eldest daughter of Prince Andrew the Duke of York, and Sarah Fergusson, this made her a member of the British Royal Family given the fact that her father was the second son of the current Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip.  Special Note:  If you are interesting in information about the wedding of her younger sister, Princess Eugenie and Jack Brooksbank, please click on the link. 

It has been reported that Princess Beatrice had meet and began dating Edoardo Mozzi in 2018, a property developer and the son of Alex Mapelli-Mozzi and Nicola Diana Burrows.  One of their first joint public appearances was at a fundraising event at the National Portrait Gallery in London in March 2019 and later that year at the wedding of Lady Gabriella Windsor to Thomas Kingston in May 2019.      

After a seemingly short courtship, the official announcement by the office of the Duke of York of the engagement of Princess Beatrice and Edoardo took place on September 26, 2019. 

Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mozzi at the time of their engagement announcement

Princess Beatrice’s engagement ring was made by Shaun Leane in collaboration with Edoardo and features a 2.5 carat round brilliant diamond flanked by two small round diamonds and tapered baguettes on either side, set in platinum with diamond pave extending halfway down the band.   

Special Note:  Originally the wedding was scheduled to take place on May 29, 2020 at the Chapel Royal at St. James Palace with a private reception to have followed in the gardens of Buckingham Palace but it was postponed due to the coronavirus pandemic. 

After a short delay and under the guidance of the strict pandemic restrictions, Princess Beatrice married Edoardo Mozzi on July 17, 2020 at the Royal Chapel of All Saints near Royal Lodge at Windsor, England in a small private ceremony.  It was reported that Prince Andrew, Princess Beatrice’s father, was able to walk her down the aisle and her grandparents, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, were able to attend along with the couple’s parents and siblings.

Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mozzi on their wedding day

Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mozzi with Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip

Princess Beatrice wore a vintage dress designed by Norman Harnell and previously worn by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth, it was loaned to her by the Queen as her “something old”.  The dress was made of ivory peau de soie taffeta trimmed with ivory Duchess satin and featured diamante embellishments with a geometric checkered pattern on the fitted bodice.  The dress was restyled by Angela Kelly, the Queen’s personal dressmaker, and Stewart Parvin, a designer who specializes in bridal dresses.  The previous puffed hemline of the dress was altered to form a straight edge and organza short sleeves were also added. 

Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mozzi
notice the altered hemline and the addition of the organza sleeves
compared to the original version of the dress, shown in the photo below

Queen Elizabeth wearing the original Norman Hartnell dress in the 1960s



Princess Beatrice wore another sentimental item on loan from her grandmother and it was the Queen Mary Fringe Tiara that Queen Elizabeth had worn at her wedding in 1947.  Special Note:  The tiara had been made by the Royal Jewelers, Garrard, in 1919 from a diamond necklace that had been given to Lady May of Teck (later to become Queen Mary) by Queen Victoria on the occasion of her marriage to the Queen’s grandson, Prince George (later to become King George V), in 1893.  

As you can see from the photo of Princess Beatrice and Edoardo leaving the church, there was a massive floral display designed by the Savill Garden with flowers and foliage provided by the Windsor Great Park.  Princess Beatrice’s bridal bouquet was designed by Patrice Van Helden of RVH Floral Design and featured trailing jasmine, pale pink and cream sweet peas, royal porcelain ivory spray roses, pink o’hara garden roses, pink wax flower and baby pink astilbe.  The bouquet also included the traditional sprig of myrtle from the garden at Osborne House which all British Royal brides have incorporated in their wedding bouquets since 1858.  

Princess Beatrice’s bridal bouquet

In another British Royal wedding tradition, later Princess Beatrice’s bridal bouquet was placed on the tomb of the Unknown Warrior in Westminster Abbey. This custom first began when Lady Elizabeth Bowles Lyon (later to become the Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother) married Prince Albert (later to become King George VI) in 1923; the Royal couple were the parents of the current Queen Elizabeth and thereby the great-grandparents of Princess Beatrice.  In a spontaneous gesture Lady Elizabeth had laid the bouquet on the tomb as a tribute to her brother Fergus, who was killed during World War I, thus beginning a tradition for all the British Royal brides to follow in the years afterwards.  

Jackie Kennedy – White House Dresses

In this post, I will discuss the dresses worn by Jackie Kennedy during White House years.  Jackie was a major influence on fashion as First Lady during the 1960s and some of these classic styles could be seen as a great inspiration for the wedding dresses for a bride, her bridesmaids or even the Mother of the bride or groom.  (Special Note: portions of this post were originally written for my other blog, www.theenchantedmanor.com).

Jacqueline Jackie” Bouvier Kennedy (born: July 28, 1929 died: May 19, 1994) was the wife of the 35th President of the United States, John F. Kennedy.  She was the First Lady from January 1961 until her husband’s tragic assassination in November 1963.  She was young and beautiful, only 31 years old at the start of her husband’s presidency, and during her years in the White House she set the fashion style for the nation. The American public was fascinated by her simple but elegant clothing, her iconic pillbox hats and bouffant hairstyle.

The designer, Oleg Cassini, was selected shortly before the inauguration.  The First Lady and Cassini worked together throughout her husband’s presidency, collaborating on her wardrobe for official engagements which would reflect Jackie’s personal sense of style, with a distinctive and subtle European fashion design while being manufactured in the United States.

Her dresses had simple, clean lines featuring A-line skirts, three-quarter length sleeves or most often sleeveless sheaths matching coats or two piece suits consisting of a simple straight skirt and matching jacket for daytime events. Also for daytime wear shoes, gloves and hats were custom made or purchased to match each individual outfit.  Although Halston did not originally come up with the pillbox hat design, he did make several custom hats for the First Lady.

For official evening engagements, such as State dinners or other more formal occasions, the dresses were either knee-length or floor-length, depending on the event, and similar in their design elements but made from elegant fabrics sometimes with chiffon, beading or silk embroidery accents.  Cassini produced over 300 dresses for Mrs. Kennedy during her time in the White House and all the dresses were made by a staff of skilled seamstresses specifically assigned for making the clothing for the First Lady using fabrics of the finest linen, wool, satin and shantung silk.  Special Note: Cassini was not the only fashion designer of Mrs. Kennedy’s dresses during the White House years and occasionally she collaborated with other designers.

So, let’s start by looking at a few of Mrs. Kennedy’s iconic dresses which she worn as the nation’s First Lady, the dresses are listed in chronological order.

Pre-Inauguration Gala Dress –

For the Pre-Inauguration Gala Dress held on January 19, 1961 at the National Guard Armory in Washington, D.C. Cassini designed a beautiful ivory silk sating evening gown with a fully lined A-line skirt and three-quarter length sleeves which Mrs. Kennedy worn with elbow length gloves.  The detail of the cockade (a knot of ribbon or fabric with a circular shape in the middle) which was attached at the waist was per Jackie’s request was a nod to her French Bouvier ancestry.  (Fashion Note:  Some fashion critiques think that this dress worn for the Pre-Inaugural Gala was more beautiful than the gown that was worn for the Inaugural Ball the next day and I would have to agree with this assessment)

Inauguration Ceremony Dress and Coat –

On President John Kennedy’s Inauguration Day, January 20, 1961, Cassini designed two separate pieces – a simple dress with a matching coat both made of beige wool crepe.  Cassini selected the fabric for the coat specifically because he knew that the other political wives would be wearing their heavy fur coats “looking like overstuffed bears” and he wanted the new First Lady to look both youthful and fashionable.  The over-blouse dress featured a simple round neckline, three-quarter length sleeves and a notched detail at the waistline.  Worn over the dress was an equally simple knee-length coat which featured two large buttons at the front and two side pockets at the hip.  To complete her ensemble, Mrs. Kennedy wore a small sable circlet at her neck, a matching sable muff and a Halston pillbox hat which she chose to wear toward the back of her head.  (Fashion Note:  Numerous Halston pillbox hats were custom made for Mrs. Kennedy throughout her husband’s presidency and would later become a fashion accessory strongly associated with the First Lady)

Inaugural Ball Gown and Cape –

On the evening of Inauguration Day: after the swearing-in ceremony, congressional luncheon and parade, President Kennedy and Mrs. Kennedy formally dressed for the several Inauguration Balls planned for the night festivities.  Mrs. Kennedy wore an off-white sleeveless gown made of silk chiffon over peau d’ange (satin-weave fabric) featuring a strapless bodice embellished with silver colored silk embroidery thread and seed pearl beading, a matching cape with a toggle closure at the neck was worn over the dress.  The dress was designed in collaboration with Mrs. Kennedy, who drew the sketches of her dress ideas, and Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Custom Salon located in New York City.

Ivory Embroidered Evening Gown –

During the first year of President Kennedy’s administration, a State Visit was planned to France where the President would have several meeting with Charles de Gaulle the leader of the French Republic.  Mrs. Kennedy had been a longtime admirer of French Fashion Design but for the visit she had planned to wear American designs exclusively with the exception of one particular dress.  For the dinner at Versailles, France on June 1, 1961 she wore a stunning Givenchy evening gown of ivory ziberline (a heavy silk fabric with a twill weave) which featured an A-line skirt.  The bodice of the dress was heavily embroidered with roses and lilies of the valley created by Hurel with silk thread, ribbon and seed pearls.  (Historical Fashion Note:  The dress was worn again for a congressional reception held in the White House on April 10, 1962)

Blue Evening Gown –

This lovely dress was worn by Mrs. Kennedy during a State Visit to England for a dinner hosted by Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace in London on June 5, 1961.  The designer was Chez Ninon and the light blue silk shantung evening dress featured a belt with a decorative bow at the waist that created soft pleats, the dress was an interpretation of a Givenchy dress.  (Historical Fashion Note:  The dress was worn once again for a dinner with the Prime Minister of Japan, Hayato Ikeda, at the Japanese Embassy in Washington, D.C. on June 22, 1961)

Apricot Dress –

Mrs. Kennedy traveled to India and Pakistan with her sister, Lee Radziwill, on a diplomatic tour on March 12-26, 1962.  Taking inspiration from the countries she was to visit, her wardrobe for the trip was designed in more colorful colors.  A perfect example of this was the bright dress she wore on March 17, 1962 for a boat ride on Lake Pichola in Udaipur, India.  She wore a Cassini designed sleeveless apricot colored, knee length dress made in ziberline (with a v-neckline which was accented with a bow at the waist.

Pale Yellow Dress –

During the diplomatic trip to India and Pakistan, Mrs. Kennedy wore a dress designed by Gustave Tassell.  The dress was made of pale yellow silk shantung and featured a slit opening at the neckline, cap sleeves and a three-inch wide band around a fitted waist with a full skirt.  While in Jaipur, India, where the First Lady met with members of the Peace Corps, she was joined by her sister for an elephant ride at the Amber Palace.

Celadon Evening Dress –

Mrs. Kennedy wore a lovely evening dress designed by Cassini in a beautiful shade called celadon (a light green color) made in a silk jersey.  The dress is very fluid in style and features a gently draped bodice and skirt forming soft pleats.  Mrs. Kennedy wore the dress to a dinner honoring the Nobel Prize winners which was held at the White House in Washington, D.C. on April 29, 1962.

Pink Evening Dress –

State Dinners at the White House were always formal events, such as the one honoring Andre Malraux, the French Minister of Culture.  Malraux was responsible for bringing the Mona Lisa portrait by Leonardo da Vinci to the United States and a dinner was held at the White House on May 11, 1962 to honor him.  Mrs. Kennedy wore an evening gown designed by Guy Douvier made in a soft pink silk shantung, the dress wraps together in the back and is tied with a stiff Kabuki-style bow.

As previously mentioned, any of Jackie Kennedy’s 1960s classic style dresses would be a great inspiration for the wedding dresses for a bride, her bridesmaids or even the Mother of the bride or groom.

Movie Weddings – “It Happened One Night”

 

In this post I will discuss the classic 1934 Columbia movie, “It Happened One Night”, the film’s plot is based on a 1933 short story called “Night Bus” by Samuel Hopkins Adams.   Frank Capra directed and co-produced the movie which is considered one of the first films to be known as a screwball comedy and it starred Claudette Colbert in the role of Ellie Andrews who is a spoiled heiress and Clark Gable in the role of Peter Warne who is a recently fired newspaper report. 

Special Note: Interestingly, Colbert and Gable were not the first choice to play the roles and due to certain circumstances both actors reluctantly took on the parts in the film.  Colbert because she had made a previous unsuccessful movie with Capra for Columbia and she did not want to make another film with the director so to persuade her to take the role the studio agreed to pay her double her normal salary if she completed filming the movie within four weeks.  Gable was “loaned” to Columbia Studios as a “punishment” because he had refused to make another movie at his contracted studio, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer.  In a strange twist of fate, both Colbert and Gable would go on to win many accolades for their roles in “It Happened One Night” and the film became a very popular classic Hollywood movie.   

It Happened One Night plot

The movie starts with Ellie being held captive on a yacht by her wealthy father, she has eloped with King Westley who he strongly disapproves of because he thinks that Westley is after his daughter’s inheritance and he wants the marriage annulled.   Ellie jumps from the yacht moored off the Florida coast and plans to runs away to New York City during the night on a Greyhound bus to reunite with Westley.  While on the bus Ellie meets Warne who recognizes her as the runaway heiress.  Ellie reluctantly agrees to give the charismatic newspaper reporter her exclusive story if he helps her get to New York.

Along the way, Ellie and Warne spend the night at a roadside motel.  Low on money and not being able to afford two rooms the pair claims to be a married couple in order to share one room which proves to be a very awkward situation.  In the classic scene in the motel room, Warne hangs a rope between the two twin beds and drapes a blanket across the room to allow Ellie some privacy; he humorously refers to the blanket as the “walls of Jericho”. 

Special Note:  At the time of filming the movie industry was about to begin enforcing the strict 1930 Motion Picture Production Code, more commonly known as the “Hays Code”.  This code severely limited moral and social conduct as portrayed in films and It Happened One Night was considered a “pre-code” production and the rules were not enforced.  As a result, the scene in the motel was allowed and when Clark Gable’s character undresses in front of Claudette Colbert’s character to reveal that he is not wearing an undershirt and his chest is bare caused quite a scandal.  In fact it caused a trend in men’s fashion of not wearing an undershirt and sales dramatically dropped.   

Later, when the bus breaks down, Ellie and Warne decide not to wait and they begin to hitchhike instead.  The scene shows Warne trying his best to flag down a car but he is unsuccessful and Ellie asks to give it a try.  As she raises her skirt to reveal her shapely legs and car quickly stops and they continue their trip to New York!

Sometime during their trip Ellie realizes she has fallen in love with Warne and professes her feelings one night through the blanket wall.  When she wakes in the morning Warne is gone and Ellie thinks that he has abandoned her (in fact he has rushed onto New York to get an advanced payment from his editor so that he can marry her!).  Disappointed, she calls her father to rescue her and feeling betrayed by Warne she decides to remarry Westley in a second wedding ceremony.

On the wedding day, feeling absoultely miserable, Ellie confesses to her father that she loves Warne but is settling on Westley.  When Warne arrives at the house to meet with the father he is there not to collect the reward money but he insists he only wants to be repaid for his expenses.  The father is impressed that Warne was not looking to profit from his helping Ellie and Warne finally admits that he really loves Ellie.  The father is impressed by Warne’s honesty and as he walks Ellie down the aisle he tells her she is marrying the wrong man and that she should marry Warne instead!  So, Ellie ditches Westley at the altar and becomes a “runaway bride”.

In one of the final scenes of the movie, Warne has contacted the father to find out what is taking so long with Ellie getting her annulment from Westley.  Finally, as the movie ends, Ellie and Warne are finally married and as they start their honeymoon a toy trumpet is played and the “wall of Jericho” (the blanket wall) falls down!!

The film went on to make cinematic history when it became the first movie to win all top five Academy Awards for 1934: Outstanding Production (Best Picture) for Columbia Studios, Best Director for Frank Capra, Best Actor for Clark Gable, Best Actress for Claudette Colbert and Best Screenplay for Robert Riskin.

The dashing Clark Gable accepting his Academy Award for Best Actor

Claudette Colbert accepting her Academy Award for Best Actress
from child star Shirley Temple

It Happened One Night costumes (Ellie’s wedding dress)

Before I start with the costumes for Ellie (Claudette Colbert)costumes, let’s talk about the costumes for Warne (Clark Gable).  The costumes for It Happened One Night were designed by Robert Kalloch who worked for both Columbia Pictures and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios.  Gable was already know as a best-dressed actor and for the bus scene in the film he wore a trench coat, Norfolk jacket with a v-neck sweater worn over a button-down shirt.  At the end of the film Gable wears a black wool gabardine suit which is perfectly tailored to fit his dashing style on screen.  (Please see the Special Note above regarding Gable’s clothing selection (or lack of) for the motel scene and how it impacted the men’s undershirt sales)

Although Claudette Corbert’s character only wears four different costumes for the film designer Robert Kalloch also did a wonderful job.  At the start of the film we see Ellie trapped on the yacht wearing a beautiful nightgown, as she boards the night bus to New York she is wearing a traveling outfit which features a skirt and a striped sweater worn over a shirt with a round collar and then for the motel scene we see Ellie borrowing a set of Warne’s pajamas that are delightfully oversized.  For the Ellie’s glamourous bridal dress for her almost wedding to Westley she is wearing a beautifully bias-cut silk chameusse with flutter sleeves and flowers placed along the scoop neckline, she is also wearing a lovely tulle bridal train.    

Famous 1920s Brides

In this post I will be taking a look back a hundred years ago to discuss four famous brides of the 1920s ranging from a Hollywood film star to a literary muse that married a famous American author to an American beauty that married an English aristocrat and lastly an American heiress who later abandoned her family to live in Europe. 

But before I start let’s briefly discuss what prompted the dramatic changes to women fashion styles during that decade.  It was just after World War I had ended and women were undergoing many changes as they moved out of their domestic roles to become factory workers, sales clerks in department stores and secretaries in various corporate businesses.  This sense of financial freedom and independence during this time resulted in many new fashion trends as the modest and restrictive clothing of the Victorian and Edwardian Era was evolving into more revealing and looser fitting clothing of the 1920s.

Starting with the undergarments, women in the 1900s wore uncomfortable tight corsets, bulky knickers, thick wool stockings and several layers of petticoats underneath their long dresses.  By the end of the 1920s women wore less undergarments made of lighter satin or silk and these brassiere, panties and slips were worn underneath dresses that had much shorter hemlines that reached scandalously to a lady’s mid-calf! 

Ready-made fashions became more affordable to the middle class working women and for the first time they were able to purchase the latest stylish dresses and accessories.  The 1920s became associated with the “flapper girl” that wore her hair short in a bob cut to the chin and she wore tailored dresses of tweed during the day and for the evening she wore beaded dresses made of silk and satin. 

To illustrate these fashion changes a perfect example is the costumes of the Downton Abbey television series.  As the Crawley sisters moved from 1912 pre-World War England as the series began to 1926 in the middle of the Roaring Twenties when the series ended their clothing reflects these new fashion trends.  If you are interested in more detailed information regarding the Downton Abbey Fashions, please click on the links to my other blog theenchantedmanor.com and Part One features a general discussion on the costumes worn during the six seasons of the series and Part Two details the wedding fashions of the Crawley sisters and a few of the other supporting characters.

Mary Pickford

Mary Pickford (April 8, 1892 – May 29, 1979) was a Canadian-born American actress; her birth name was Gladys Louise Smith.  As a young woman she began her film career in silent movies playing numerous ingénue roles and she became known as “America’s Sweetheart”.  She was the co-founder of the United Artists film studio in 1919 with D.W. Griffith, Charlie Chaplin and Douglas Fairbanks.  Later she became one of the first members of the Academy Motion Picture Arts and Sciences when it was founded in 1927.

Mary Pickford – “the girl in curls”

Mary Pickford signing the United Artists Studios contract
(she is seated with Douglas Fairbanks on the far left)


Pickford was married three times, her first husband was Irish-born film actor Owen Moore who she married in 1911 and her third husband was band leader Buddy Rogers who she married in 1937 and they adopted a boy and a girl. 

Perhaps her most famous marriage was to her second husband the swashbuckling hero actor Douglas Fairbanks.  The couple first met in 1917 in New York while they were both married to other people and within a year their friendship soon turned into a romantic affair, Pickford and Fairbanks eventually divorced their respective spouses. 

On March 28, 1920 Pickford and Fairbanks were married secretly at the home a local Nevada Baptist pastor; the bride wore a dress of white tulle over white satin and trimmed with green flowers at the waist.  The couple later had a delayed wedding reception at their new home in Beverly Hills.  The house became known as “Pickfair” (a combination of their last names) and was purchased by Fairbanks as a wedding present for Pickford; it had 22 rooms and boasted the first in-ground swimming pool in the area!   

Newspaper article announcing the wedding of Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks

Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks on their honey in Europe

Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks at their home – Pickfair

Sadly, as the silent movie careers of Pickford and Fairbanks began to fade with the new “talkie” films, the marriage came to an end and the couple divorced in 1936.    

Zelda Sayre

Zelda Sayre (July 24, 1900 – March 10, 1948) was born in Montgomery, Alabama.  Zelda met F. Scott Fitzgerald in 1918 at a country club event when he was in the army and stationed at the nearby Camp Sheridan.  Fitzgerald became enamored with the vivacious and fun-loving Zelda and would visit her often during his time there and then exchanging letters when to be stationed at Camp Mills near Long Island, NY.  He shared with her his dreams of becoming a great author and even included a character that very much resembled Zelda in the first book that he was writing, “This Side of Paradise”.  In another one of his novels, “The Great Gatsby”, Fitzgerald fictionalized his feelings of his first meeting with Zelda in describing when the character of Jay Gatsby meets Daisy Buchanan but changing the place of their meeting instead to a train.

Zelda Sayre and F. Scott Fitzgerald

When Fitzgerald was discharged from the military in 1919 he moved to New York City to establish himself as a writer.  In an unusual proposal, Fitzgerald sent Zelda his mother’s ring in a letter and they were officially engaged.  By early 1920 Fitzgerald had completed his first novel and it was soon published, shortly thereafter Zelda arrived in New York for the wedding.  The couple was married on April 3, 1920 in a very small ceremony at St. Patrick’s Cathedral; they spent their honeymoon at the Biltmore in New York City.      

Newspaper article announcing the wedding of Zelda Sayre and F. Scott Fitzgerald

Fitzgerald and Zelda had one daughter, Frances Scott “Scottie”, who was born on October 26, 1921 in St. Paul, Minnesota; the couple had briefly moved to Fitzgerald’s former hometown so that Zelda could give birth to their baby girl there.

The couple returned to New York City in the midst of the “Roaring Twenties” which was the decade after World War I when there was economic prosperity and social values were less restrictive while cultural changes came about as new nightclubs opened within the cities.  It was also the “Jazz Age” which is a term that has been credited to Fitzgerald who had written about this decadent time in his 1922 “Tales of the Jazz Age” book.  Zelda had become Fitzgerald’s literary muse and was the iconic “flapper ”, a definition given to women of the 1920s that wore short skirts, bobbed hair, listened to jazz music and flaunted their unacceptable behavior by wearing excessive make-up, drinking alcohol and smoking cigarettes and flouting their inappropriate sex lives.

F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald

The couple later spent part of their time living on the French Riviera and socializing with friends such as Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway.  Unfortunately, despite the fact that they were parents of a young child, the couple’s lifestyle was very turbulent with excessive drinking, numerous infidelities and almost constant quarreling.  Zelda was perhaps the more noticeably affected with her outlandish careless behavior resulting in a diagnosis as a schizophrenic and she spent time in the many different hospitals and sanatoriums in Europe and America.  Sadly, after years of living their hedonistic lives, the couple had separated and Fitzgerald was living with his mistress in Hollywood at the time of his death in 1940, cause of death was listed as a heart attack.  Zelda, never fully recovering after the loss of her husband, died several years later in 1948 in a horrible fire while she was a patient at a hospital in Asheville, NC.         

F. Scott and Zelda with their daughter, “Scottie”

Catherine Wendell

Catherine Wendell (November 29, 1900 – April, 8 1977) was an American beauty who was born in New Hampshire into an upper middle class family and she later moved to England in 1911 with her widowed mother and siblings after the death of her father; her birth name was Anne Catherine Wendell.  Catherine was destined for unhappiness and she married three times, her second husband was Geoffrey Grenfell who she married in 1938 and her third husband was Stuart Mommand who she married in 1950.

Catherine Wendell

Catherine is perhaps best known through her marriage to her first husband Henry Herbert (Lord Porchester “Porchey”), their wedding took place on July 17, 1922 in St. Margaret’s Church in Westminster, England.  The couple were only married a short time when Porchey’s father died while in Egypt in 1923, his father had been there because he was funding the famous archeologist Howard Carter who had recently discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun. 

Lord Porchester “Porchey” and Catherine Wendell on their wedding day

After his father’s death, Porchey became the 6th Earl of Carnarvon and Catherine became Lady Carnarvon and they lived at Highclere Castle (best-known as the filming site of the popular television series “Downton Abbey”).  The couple went on to have two children, Henry born in 1924 and Anne Penelope born in 1925.

Lady Carnarvon with her two children,
Henry and Anne Penelope

Initially, for a short time, the marriage appeared to be fine and the couple had a busy social life with the aristocratic and royal set, entertaining frequently at Highclere and going to horse races and attending other events in London. Unfortunately, Catherine was very unhappy since Porchey proved to be unfaithful, had numerous affairs and at times he was very abusive.  This situation left Catherine very shaken and she began to drink heavily, she was not completely the victim in this marriage and she also had affairs.  Finally, after thirteen years of mental and physical anguish, the couple divorced in 1936. 

Cornelia Vanderbilt

Cornelia Vanderbilt (August 22, 1900 – February 7, 1976) was an American heiress and the only child of George Vanderbilt II and Edith Stuyvesant Dresser; she was named for her paternal great-grandfather Cornelius Vanderbilt.  Her father died in 1914 and at the young age of fourteen years old she inherited the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC, the 250 room mansion is considered the largest privately owned home in the United States.  She received an annual sum of $2,000,000 when she turned 21 years old and then the full inheritance of $50,000,000 at the age of 25 years old.   

Cornelia and her mother Edith had spent time in Washington D.C. after the death of her father.  It was there that she met the British aristocrat, John Cecil, who was then the secretary to the British Embassy.  At the time Cecil was named one of the most eligible British bachelors and he had been raised in Norfolk and he attended Oxford College where he studied history and international law before becoming a member of the British diplomatic corps.  In anticipation of their upcoming wedding, Cecil resigned his post and planned to work full time managing the Biltmore Estate.    

Cornelia Vanderbilt and John Cecil

Cornelia and Cecil were married on April 29, 1924 in a lavish ceremony held at the All Souls Cathedral in the Biltmore Village followed by a grand reception at the Biltmore Estate. 

Cornelia on her wedding day standing near the Grand Staircase inside the Biltmore
photo from the Biltmore Estate website

Cornelia’s beautiful wedding dress was made of white satin and featured a long straight column silhouette with long sleeves; her satin shoes were trimmed with orange blossoms.  Her bridal veil of tulle and lace was four yards long and she carried a bridal bouquet which featured orchids and lilies of the valley and was made locally by a florist in Asheville.   

Cornelia and John Cecil at the All Soul’s Church in the Biltmore Village in Asheville, NC
photo from the Biltmore Estate website

Cornelia and her bridesmaids and flower girls in possession into the church
(Cornelia’s mother, Edith, is seen walking her down the aisle)
photo from the Biltmore Estate website

Cornelia and John Cecil with their large wedding party
in the Tapestry Room at the Biltmore
photo from the Biltmore Estate website

The wedding reception of Cornelia and John Cecil
which took place in the Garden Room inside the Biltmore
photo from the Biltmore Estate website

The couple lived at the Biltmore and continued the traditions of entertaining on a grand scale while managing the Estate property and farming operations.  Cornelia and Cecil had two sons, George born in 1925 and William born in 1928.  But after several years Cornelia became bored with her life at the Biltmore and in 1932 she moved to Greenwich Village in New York City to study art to live a bohemian lifestyle and eventually she moved to Paris and then England, she never returned to North Carolina.  Cornelia and Cecil divorced in 1934; Cecil remained living and managing the Biltmore Estate although during World War II he was briefly stationed in England before returning to North Carolina after the war.

Cornelia (now assuming the name of Mary) went onto marry twice more, her second husband was Captain Bulkeley- Johnson and they were married in 1949 (he died in 1968) then she married her third husband William Goodsir in 1972.  Cornelia died in Oxford, England on February 7, 1976 at age of 75 years old.

Also, for information regarding another famous 1920s bride, please click on the links to the Wedding of Prince Albert and Lady Elizabeth (the future King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother) and also A British Bride – Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon.

For additional information about 1920s brides depicted in television and movies, please click on the links to Downton Abbey Weddings and It Happened One Night.